Hmmm. Mine is plumbed kind of oddly--after the resrictor and before the
radiator, with the line going both to the expansion tank and the rear plug
on the head. I guess that's what youre talking about.
-----Original Message-----
From: owner-fot@autox.team.net
To: Larry Young; FOT
Sent: 3/29/2005 9:04 PM
Subject: Re: FOT Project Pulley
I'd be careful with the neck on the t-stat housing. That's in the area
of
high pressure before the restriction lowering pressure for the
radiator. What we found is that we'd overpower any radiator cap we put
on
it if the overflow was plumbed there. We ended up with a cap on the
radiator with overflow and another on the t-stat housing with overflow
plugged. Allows easy complete filling.
- Tony
At 09:01 AM 3/26/2005, Larry Young wrote:
>I made my current pulley by turning down a big (approx. 4 or 5 inch
>diameter) chunk of steel. It took forever. It would be much simpler
to
>machine a hub and bolt an off-the-shelf pulley and harmonic balancer to
>it. I don't know what off-the-shelf items would work. Suggestions?
>
>Does anyone run an electric pump? Would it be vintage legal?
>
>If you're running hot enough to form steam, you can always increase the
>block pressure by changing the radiator cap. However, I've seen
problems
>which I suspected were due to too much block pressure. I'm hard
headed,
>so it took a while for Kramer to convince me not to run more than a 7
psi
>cap. With separate liners that protrude above the block deck, our
engines
>have many places to develop leaks at high pressure. A better solution
is
>to install a higher capacity radiator. This is one of the best mods
I've
>done. Mine is a commodity Chevy radiator that I got from Speedway
Motors
>for about $150. For a TR3, you'll have to cut off the filler neck and
>weld a patch over the hole. I fill thru an expansion tank mounted on
the
>firewall, but it would be better to have a neck welded into the
thermostat
>housing. I have enough to worry about when I'm racing, this eliminated
>one of them.
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