Re: FOT Project Pulley

[Chuck Arnold <chuck.arnold@oracle.com>]

To customize the water pump, crank and alternator I used components from 
Jones Racing Products.  Nice web site even if you do not buy.
http://www.jonesracingproducts.com/pul.html
They were willing to make a custom aluminum adapter to fit the front of 
the standard crank pulley for about $140 in quantity of 1.  I did not 
yet order it, though it would sure help the design I did come up with.  
IF anyone is interested, I would go in on a purchase.
Chuck


Larry Young wrote:

> I made my current pulley by turning down a big (approx. 4 or 5 inch 
> diameter) chunk of steel.  It took forever.  It would be much simpler 
> to machine a hub and bolt an off-the-shelf pulley and harmonic 
> balancer to it. I don't know what off-the-shelf items would work. 
> Suggestions?
>
> Does anyone run an electric pump?  Would it be vintage legal?
>
> If you're running hot enough to form steam, you can always increase 
> the block pressure by changing the radiator cap. However, I've seen 
> problems which I suspected were due to too much block pressure.  I'm 
> hard headed, so it took a while for Kramer to convince me not to run 
> more than a 7 psi cap. With separate liners that protrude above the 
> block deck, our engines have many places to develop leaks at high 
> pressure.  A better solution is to install a higher capacity 
> radiator.  This is one of the best mods I've done.  Mine is a 
> commodity Chevy radiator that I got from Speedway Motors for about 
> $150.  For a TR3, you'll have to cut off the filler neck and weld a 
> patch over the hole.  I fill thru an expansion tank mounted on the 
> firewall, but it would be better to have a neck welded into the 
> thermostat housing.  I have enough to worry about when I'm racing, 
> this eliminated one of them.
>
> Henry Frye wrote:
>
> > At 07:45 PM 03/25/2005 -0800, Bill Babcock wrote:
> >
> > >  It would be a very worthwhile endeavor to get a smaller crankshaft 
> > > pulley
> > > or a larger waterpump pulley. We probably need about 60-70 percent 
> > > of the
> > > pump speed we have now. It would require some testing and some 
> > > engineering,
> > > but it seems like a worth project. Ken--have you ever considered doing
> > > something to fiddle with the pulley ratios?
> >
> >
> > Remember, slowing down the water pump will further reduce the coolant 
> > pressure in the block. You want decent coolant pressure in the block 
> > to quench the steam bubbles that will form, and the inherent poor 
> > coolant flow towards the rear of the block makes #4 the target for 
> > localized overheating.
> >
> > I'd be cautious with this approach to finding more ponies, especially 
> > if you have had cylinder #4 overheating issues.