Greg,
Thanks for the tips. I'm off to minimania (local) today for new seals, so I can
try and do this tonight.
Regards - Bryan
>To: "Bryan Vandiver" <Bryan.Vandiver@eng.sun.com>, <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Re: Rear hub seals
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>Hi Bryan,
>
>The bearing replacement process isn't too terribly bad. I've had to do a
>few. I believe you are correct with the size being 1 7/8. However, I used
>my dad's 3/4 inch socket set to remove it, and that's back in Texas. The
>new seal bearing can be put back in by hand. Just go slow and use lots o'
>grease. If you end up picking up a 3/4 inch socket set, one of the smaller
>sockets along with a mallet will help with the installation of the bearing.
>Just remember to bend back the lock tab washer! It took me a while to
>figure out why the nut wasn't coming off. As for the torque setting, I'm
>not sure, but if you get it real tight, the tab lock should do it's job.
>Good luck!
>
>Greg
>----- Original Message -----
>From: Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver@Eng.Sun.COM>
>To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
>Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 10:38 AM
>Subject: Rear hub seals
>
>
>> I finally pulled one of my rear wheels last night to track down the oil
>leaks on
>> both my rear wheels.
>> The seals between the axle half-shafts/hub, were nice an dry, however, I
>can see
>> definite oil seepage from the inside hub seal.
>> To replace these, it looks like I'll have to pull the hubs, and press out
>the
>> bearings and then the seals. Can I press in the new seal, and bearing with
>hand
>> tools, or do I need a press??
>> BTW - what size is the nut retaining the rear hub (1&7/8"?)?? when I
>originally
>> installed them, the wheels studs were not installed, so I was able to use
>a
>> crescent wrench, but now it looks like I'll need to get a socket, unless I
>feel
>> like pounding on my nice replaced wheel studs.
>> Also I notice the shop manuals dont give any specs for how tight the rear
>hub
>> retaing nut should be, any pointere on that.
>>
>> Thanks - Bryan
>>
>>
>
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