Hi Bryan,
The bearing replacement process isn't too terribly bad. I've had to do a
few. I believe you are correct with the size being 1 7/8. However, I used
my dad's 3/4 inch socket set to remove it, and that's back in Texas. The
new seal bearing can be put back in by hand. Just go slow and use lots o'
grease. If you end up picking up a 3/4 inch socket set, one of the smaller
sockets along with a mallet will help with the installation of the bearing.
Just remember to bend back the lock tab washer! It took me a while to
figure out why the nut wasn't coming off. As for the torque setting, I'm
not sure, but if you get it real tight, the tab lock should do it's job.
Good luck!
Greg
----- Original Message -----
From Bryan Vandiver <Bryan.Vandiver at Eng.Sun.COM>
To: <spridgets@autox.team.net>
Sent: Thursday, September 07, 2000 10:38 AM
Subject: Rear hub seals
> I finally pulled one of my rear wheels last night to track down the oil
leaks on
> both my rear wheels.
> The seals between the axle half-shafts/hub, were nice an dry, however, I
can see
> definite oil seepage from the inside hub seal.
> To replace these, it looks like I'll have to pull the hubs, and press out
the
> bearings and then the seals. Can I press in the new seal, and bearing with
hand
> tools, or do I need a press??
> BTW - what size is the nut retaining the rear hub (1&7/8"?)?? when I
originally
> installed them, the wheels studs were not installed, so I was able to use
a
> crescent wrench, but now it looks like I'll need to get a socket, unless I
feel
> like pounding on my nice replaced wheel studs.
> Also I notice the shop manuals dont give any specs for how tight the rear
hub
> retaing nut should be, any pointere on that.
>
> Thanks - Bryan
>
>
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