In article <3C671743.AB3CC81@sympatico.ca>, Livia I. Haasper
<wilivhaasper@sympatico.ca> writes
>Michael Hargreave Mawson wrote:
>> I The rust is only visible on the flat
>> metal flanges that stick out from the pillars.
>
>Assessments are hard to judge without seeing the vehicle. Here in
>Canada, due to
>salt conditions during the winter, we have a lot of rust problems. This may be
>different in the UK.
Well, we have a lot of rain here, but the gritter lorries aren't out
very often (in fact I don't think they have been out at all this
winter). Salt is far less of a problem in UK than Canada, I suspect.
> What you are describing sound like a case of surface rust.
>If this is the case, a clean-up should be sufficient. You can sand off
>the rusty
>areas [ maybe wire brushing or sandblasting], then primer and paint.
Splendid. That was what I had hoped.
>> As far as the wheel arches are concerned, at least the first inch or two
>> on either side is filler and aluminium mesh. Sounds like new wings.
>
>If you only have a few inches of filler and mesh, you may get away with a good
>clean up of the previous body work and have a small replacement panel
>welded in.
>It all depends on the extend of the damage.
OK, I'll strip it out later in the year (when its not raining too
often!), and see how much of a problem there is.
>
>> That's an unexpected bit of good news. It even sounds relatively
>> cheap. :-)
>
>Ha, nothing is cheap when it comes to this kind of work. But you may
>not have any
>other choice. You can't do it all by yourself, but if you have a good dry day,
>which may be difficult at this time of the year, you can do certain things. As
>Tom O'Malley said, working outside with bare metals and body fillers can be a
>real problem.
Yeah. :-(
>
>Bonnet:
>To fabricate and replace the leading edge of the bonnet is more
>difficult then a
>replacement panel on the door skin, but it can be done, and it should
>be cheaper
>than replacing the whole thing.You might need help with that, it's not easy.
Is there any reason why I couldn't or shouldn't clear away all the rusty
metal, treat the bare metal with rust-proofer, fold and shape a piece of
sheet aluminium, rivet this in place inside the bonnet (rivets attaching
the aluminium sheet to the horizontal section on the bonnet that is all
but invisible), fill the resulting craters with filler, and then prime
and paint? (At this point, I should probably admit that my battery
tray has been repaired like this, and seems to be holding up nicely.)
ATB
--
Mike
Michael Hargreave Mawson, author of "Eyewitness in the Crimea"
http://www.greenhillbooks.com/booksheets/eyewitness_in_the_crimea.html
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