Carter Shore wrote:
>
> You can solve the 'instant rust' by using a phosphate
> wash, see/ask body shop sites, or look in the Spit
> archives. Eastwood etc. carries it, but it's available
> locally just about everywhere.
> Have you considered powder coating the wheels? Lot's
> of DIY kits and supplies available (Eastwood, Harbor
> Freight, ....).
> They (the wheels) are small enough to fit into a
> regular size oven for curing. Very tough stuff, gets
> into all the cracks and crevices, lots of colors and
> finishes.
> And you can recoup your modest investment doing PC for
> local car freaks, bicylists, boaters, etc.
I have mentioned this on the Triumphs list, but not here, I think. While
the following concerns heavy-duty equipment, I suspect that wheels are
wheels and the information applies.
I work for a heavy-equipment manufacturer, and we have, over the years,
experienced some difficulties with powder-coated wheels. The principal
problem is that when the wheel nuts are not torqued completely to the
high end of the spec, there is just enough give in powder-coating that
the wheel can pound on the hub, and the powder-coat at the mating area
pulverizes, flakes off and the wheel loosens up.
If one is going to powder-coat the wheels, I would recommend a couple of
things to make the installation safe. First, mask off just the areas
where the wheel contacts the hub and where the lug nuts contact the
wheel. If the first step is impractical or unworkable, ensure that the
lug nuts and studs are good, and that all are torqued properly to the
upper part of the recommended torque range for the lug nuts.
In either case, a powder-coated wheel should be treated the same as an
aluminum wheel--torque to recommended setting, run approximately 800
miles of normal driving and then re-torque.
Cheers, all.
--
Michael D. Porter
Roswell, NM
[mailto: mporter@zianet.com]
`70 GT6+ (being refurbished, slowly)
`71 GT6 Mk. III (organ donor)
`72 GT6 Mk. III (daily driver)
`64 TR4 (awaiting intensive care)
`80 TR7 (3.8 liter Buick-powered)
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