Hi Richard,
I would use a random obital sander to get back to the wood.
Probably 100 grit then finish the wood with 220. I would
apply 1 seal coat and 2 finish coats, hand sanding between coats,
don't forget to apply same to back side and edges, as the idea
is to seal the wood from moisture. I used a marine spar varnish
on my own car. The Spar varnish has an amber cast to help repel
UV. Hope this helps.
Rob
65 MkII
>From: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>
>Reply-To: Richard B Gosling <Gosling_Richard_B@perkins.com>
>To: spitfires <spitfires@autox.team.net>
>Subject: Dash restoration
>Date: 15 Jun 2000 08:39:20 -0500
>
>What is the best approach to dash restoration?
>
>I am not looking to spend any more money than I can avoid on this - a pot
>of
> varnish or whatever, a brush, and a sheet of sandpaper is what I'm aiming
>for.
>At the moment the varnish is peeling/cracking at one end (very tempting to
>pick
> at it like a scab!), plus a small section is a bit discoloured where a
>P.O.
> thought it would be nice to put a strip of dymo tape with the tyre
>pressures
> on (how hard are they to remember? Or even look up in the manual?)
>
>My idea is to sand the old varnish off, back to a smooth finish on the
>wood,
> then apply a few coats of varnish. Good plan? Should I use a clear
>varnish,
> or one with a bit of colour in it (to get a more-or-less stock looking
> finish)? How many coats, how much sanding? What grade sandpaper? Is it
>OK
> to use my electric orbital sander, or do I really need to do this the
>hard
> way?
>
>Richard and Daffy (once I've done the dash the interior will look great...
>if I
> replace the seat covers, arm rest cover, door panels...)
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