-- [ From: Bob Nogueira * EMC.Ver #3.1a ] --
John;
I once made a the tool you' mentioned. Basically a steel rod with a slot on
the end to fit the oil pump. I removed the Dist and put in the rod and when
I started the drill I got a face full of oil. Seems the Dist shaft hole is a
main galley for the oil .
Since then I've always used your no plugs trick .
Re Bills problem with low oil pressure, 4 to six months ago was Hot summer,
if its the same oil and heavy weight , it might be having a trouble getting
to the gauge in that tiny line. I know that if I leave my summer oil in too
long my gauge has a hard time getting up to 50 LBS when I first start it on
a cold day.
------- REPLY, Original message follows --------
> Date: Thursday, 02-Dec-99 08:01 AM
>
> From: Blair, John \ Internet: (
> Subject: RE: Low Oil Pressure Reading, Plus Four
>
> When trying to start a freshly rebuilt eng. or a eng. that has been
sitting for
> a long time, you should remove the plugs. Then try to start it. Then
eng
> will spin quite fast. This will help bring up the oil pressure. Once
you see
> oil pressure, it is safe to put the plugs back in and try to fire it.
>
> There is also a tool that will work on many cars to get the oil pressure
up the
> 1st time. You pull the dist. and stick a long stick, that is made to fit,
into
> the oil pump. You now attach an electric drill and spin up the pump that
way.
>
> As to the 2" that is probably right. Remember the pressure is directly
> related to the eng. rpm. So when starting the eng. the rpm is usually
below a
> few hundred rpm - and low pressure. Once the eng. fires you should be
getting
> 10-20 at idle and about 50-60 at 3000+ rpms.
>
> Hope this helps
>
> John
>
> -----Original Message-----
> F
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