> Glenn,
>
> Thanks for your comments. I have had quite a bit of experience with sheet
> metal and soldering also; including over ten years of restoring brass lamps
>for
> pre-1916 cars, building copper fuel and water tanks for Stanley steamers and
> several brass radiators for early cars. However, I wimped out when it came to
> the Morgan fuel tank and am having it TIG welded by a local firm that has made
> lots of fuel tanks. I don't like soldering long seams, especially in
> stainless. I do find the higher tensile strength solders such as
> 95%tin/5%silver resist stress and stain better and that's what I used for the
> radiators and tanks I built. A shop in the UK advertises in "Miscellany" that
> they make stainless steel Morgan tanks, but they quoted me a price of 800
> pounds sterling plus shipping, etc. Another reason I let this local shop make
> the tank is the fact that I only have a 24" brake anymore - too short for the
> Morgan gas tank.
>
> Art
> '64 +4 #5727
> Chester, NJ
>
> wms wrote:
>
> >
> > Art,
> > I can't sit here and not reply on this one , hope you don't
> > mind .
> > First I will state that sheet metal has been my livelyhood for
> > 40 years .I also try to do all the work on my own cars myself . I built a
> > stainless steel tank for my 62 + 4 using the same constuction as Morgan .I
> > eventually scrapped it because I did not have confidence in the soldered
> > joints .Welding to me would be the only way to go with stainless . I wanted
> > an original looking tank and was also concerned with my own ability to weld
> > light gauge stainless steel . What I did , was ordered in a sheet of brass
> > and now have made a duplicate tank in brass which can be painted black and
> > will look original ( If you ' re up to polishing ,you could have a lifetime
> > job and the looks would be nice ! Perhaps there is a down side to this ,
> > however I can see none , the cost is not that much different than
> > stainless and brass is much nicer to work with .I also had enough brass to
> > make another grille. I used only soft solder but was able to " sweat" the
> > solder into the seams , joints and corners very well .I used the Morgan
> > style tank supports with four bolts ( which my car had ) and mounted to the
> > boards to the frame solid ,( as my car was when I got it ).I too was
> > concerned with frame flex and did set my tank mounts on rubber pads using
> > nylock nuts to position the nuts on the bolts so they where snug but would
> > flex .The tank bottom cross-break sits on the wood floor but the outside
> > edges sit on rubberpads as well.---------It's in there now and I will keep
> > an eye on it to watch for any harmful effects. It's great what you can
> > learn from the " Pros " here on the net . We thank them !
> > Glenn Nigh # 5112 # B2117
> > > From: Art Hart <arthart@bell-labs.com>
> > > To: morgan forum <morgans@autox.team.net>
> > > Subject: Re:Morgan Gas Tank
> > > Date: February 17, 1999 9:17 AM
> > >
> > > Greg,
> > >
> > > I am in the process of remaking my gas tank from stainless steel as it
> > > had rusted inside so badly that one baffle was completely rusted off and
> > > rattling around and the huge Fram fuel filter I have on the line plugs
> > > with rust after only a few hundred miles. My rear fuel tank board is
> > > secured to the rear crossmember by the three screws that you mention and
> > > there are the two steel straps holding the two boards together, but the
> > > front board has a 5/16 bolt on either end anchoring it to the side
> > > rails. I gather that these are incorrect and have been added by the
> > > previous restorer and that I should leave these out when I replace the
> > > tank??
> > >
> > > Art Hart
> > > '64 +4
> > > Chester, NJ
> > >
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