Greg- When reattaching my gas tank frame (with Fuel Safe cell inside) after the
old mess broke off one memorable day, I replaced the sheared 'screws' with
carriage bolts and used four, not three, bolts, because I flunked geometry. All
seems very solid three years later. The biggest loss from that 'break' was the
fine Cohiba torpedo that I was smoking at the time. Had to jettison it in a
hurry. I think the idea of using those stainless steel straps to locate the
tank, rather than the soldered tabs that are on my '57, is an excellent idea. I
will do this before the Spring season. Chip Brown.
Greg Solow wrote:
> I have had my car since 1965 when I purchased it new. The only problem I
> have had with my gas tank , and I have seen the same problem in many other
> cars, was that the two baffles which run fore and aft dividing the tank
> roughly in thirds, came unsoldered from the inside of the tank and fell to
> the bottom where they would slide around and sometimes interfere with the
> correct functioning of the fuel gauge. To repair this, I ultimately
> drilled 8 holes through the sides of the tank so that the baffles could be
> pop riveted into place securely. Then the steel pop rivets were silver
> soldered over to plug the holes . There have been no problems since. I
> believe that the original mounting, solidly on good wood boards is an
> excellent solution. The leaks are caused by either the boards coming adrift
> from the chassis, or the tank itself coming loose from the beards and moving
> around then stressing the soldered joints. The two wooden boards are
> fastened together by two metal straps that are screwed into the wood. Then
> the boards are fastened to the fuel tank by four bolts that pass through the
> mounting brackets that are soldered to the ends of the tank. Then this
> whole rigid assembly is attached to the frame by THREE screws ONLY. There
> is a good reason for that. THREE POINTS DETERMINE A PLANE. With the board
> platform attached in this manner, the boards and the tank form one unit that
> is insulated form any flexing of the frame, i.e.. the frame can move around
> but the tank will not be "bent" or twisted. .
>
> My recommendation is to do a good solder job on the tank. Secure the
> baffles if they have come loose. (You can see them with a mirror and a light
> through the sending unit hole). If the tank is not rusty inside DON'T seal
> it. I believe that "sealing" is to stop or prevent rust, not stop leaks.
> Make sure that the support boards are in good shape, especially at the
> forward corners where the two front bolts that go through the chassis are
> located. Tighten everything up and keep it tight and you should have no
> problems.
> We have found that most of the engineering that went into Morgans was
> and is quite good. MOST THINGS DO N0T need to be reengineered! The areas
> where things can really be improved are in the fit and finish and sometimes
> in the materials used. Morgans were "Built to a price" during the sixties,
> remember a new +4 cost more that an MG-B, but less that an Austin Healey
> 3000. The way Morgan kept the price down was by using the least expensive
> materials that would do the job, and I don't necessarily think that there
> was any thought of the cars being on the road 30 years later. After all, by
> 1964, when I first visited the factory, the 3 wheeler was really an orphan,
> as far as Morgan was concerned, and the last one produced was only 11 years
> old then.
> Regards,
> Greg Solow
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Phil Roettjer <Phil.Roettjer@quantum.com>
> To: morgans@autox.team.net <morgans@autox.team.net>
> Date: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 5:11 PM
> Subject: RE: Morgan Gas Tank
>
> > I have the gas tank out of my +4 since it was also leaking. What I
> >discovered is there are stress points at the bottom where the sides of the
> >tank are soldered on. There are two bolt holes on the flanges on each side
> >and the side-to-side motion of the car plus vibrations puts tremendous
> >stress on these solder joints. So any padding that would allow the stress
> to
> >be transferred away from these joints should be beneficial. The leaking
> >problem in my car is not due to corrosion, but due to breaking the solder
> >joints at these stress points. So I do plan to have some sort of rubber or
> >padding at the bolting points to help relieve the stress. I would also
> >recommend sealing the inside of the tank with a compound such as the POR15
> >tank sealer.
> >
> > I would welcome any other suggestions.
> >
> > Regards,
> > Phil Roettjer
> > 1967 +4
> >
> >> -----Original Message-----
> >> From: Jane McDaid [SMTP:Murphys@ziplink.net]
> >> Sent: Tuesday, February 16, 1999 5:36 PM
> >> To: hals@ix.netcom.com; jpavone@vanstar.com
> >> Cc: morgans@autox.team.net
> >> Subject: Re: Morgan Gas Tank
> >>
> >> Or the silicone trapped moisture between the boards and the tank? Morgans
> >> need plenty of ventilation!
> >>
> >> Jerry
> >>
> >> At 03:21 PM 2/16/99 -0600, hals@ix.netcom.com wrote:
> >> >what a fancy way of mounting - with a bead of silicone - my old tank is
> >> just
> >> >bolted squarely and firmly down to the wooden planks that form my back
> >> >platform.
> >> >mayhaps the tank needs that firmer support??, or the seal that was used
> >> >would have let go regardless..
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >On 02/16/99 08:51:17 you wrote:
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>I've just sent my 4/4 gas tank to the folks at Gas Tank Renu as it has
> >> >>started to leak just one driving season into it's Lifetime warranty. I
> >> >>assume this was due to a screw up during the "renuing" process, but I
> >> can't
> >> >>help wondering if vibration may have caused this. The tank was mounted
> >> on
> >> >>the boards with a bead of black silicone in between. Anyone know of a
> >> >>better way to mount the tank to help reduce vibration?
> >> >>
> >> >>Regards,
> >> >>
> >> >>John
> >> >>
> >> >>59' 4/4
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >>
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >> >
> >
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