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Car model not given, but other than MGBs not having banjos at the slave
much the same as Barney. The MGB is also difficult to bleed, many
techniques have been found to work from car to car, one of the simplest
being to wedge the pedal fully down overnight then let it up slowly next
morning. That should give air bubbles time to gather near the top of
the metal pipe, which are flushed back into the reservoir as the pedal
is released. You don't say whether fluid is being lost or not, or
whether the loss of clutch action is gradual i.e. as indicated by the
biting point getting lower and lower (test it daily at least), or is
sudden. Gradual loss when the car is being used can be from air being
drawn past seals, or from leaks, which in the MGB can run down the pedal
and be lost in the carpet as well as be external. Any fluid in the dust
cover?
PaulH
On 25/11/2023 17:02, dave northrup wrote:
>
> Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay working.Â
> several times Iâ??ve gotten it to work, only to find in a few days that
> it no longer works.
>
> as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form).
>
> Iâ??ve replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough Faire
> this time. Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing as
> well. which brings me to my question. As opposed to the brake
> connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost
> Rube Goldberg. Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made
> not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side? Being
> correct is not a factor; having it work is!
>
>
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<p>Car model not given, but other than MGBs not having banjos at the
slave much the same as Barney. The MGB is also difficult to
bleed, many techniques have been found to work from car to car,
one of the simplest being to wedge the pedal fully down overnight
then let it up slowly next morning. That should give air bubbles
time to gather near the top of the metal pipe, which are flushed
back into the reservoir as the pedal is released. You don't say
whether fluid is being lost or not, or whether the loss of clutch
action is gradual i.e. as indicated by the biting point getting
lower and lower (test it daily at least), or is sudden. Gradual
loss when the car is being used can be from air being drawn past
seals, or from leaks, which in the MGB can run down the pedal and
be lost in the carpet as well as be external. Any fluid in the
dust cover?</p>
<p>PaulH<br>
</p>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 25/11/2023 17:02, dave northrup
wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
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<p class="MsoNormal">Really having trouble getting my clutch to
work and stay working. several times Iâ??ve gotten it to work,
only to find in a few days that it no longer works.
<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">as a result I have never actually driven
the car (it came in kit form).<o:p></o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p>Â </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">Iâ??ve replaced the master, slave, and hose,
all from Scarborough Faire this time. Thinking I need to
maybe replace the metal tubing as well. which brings me to my
question. As opposed to the brake connection, the slave has a
banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost Rube Goldberg. Is
there any reason when I have the new tubing made not to just
skip all that and do it like the brake side? Being correct is
not a factor; having it work is!<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<br>
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