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Very early MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with two side ports and a
banjo fitting for the hose connetion. The bleeder fitting has to go
in the top port, hose connection to the bottom port.
Later MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with one side poet (high) for
the bleeder and one end port (lower) for the hose (same hose), and no
banjo fitting parts.
If you're not a concours show enthusiast, then I suggest all early
MGA should be changed to the later style slave cylinder (first time
it needs to be changed), and abandon the banjo fitting parts.
The MG clutch is notoriously difficult to bleed the first time, but
once it is working it should stay working. If it loses fluid, you
need to fix the leak point. If it does not lose fluid, but stops
working anyway, that would be rather wierd.
At 12:02 PM 11/25/2023, dave northrup wrote:
>....
>Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay
>working. several times I've gotten it to work, only to find in a
>few days that it no longer works.
>
>as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit form).
>
>I've replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough
>Faire this time. Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing
>as well. which brings me to my question. As opposed to the brake
>connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost
>Rube Goldberg. Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made
>not to just skip all that and do it like the brake side? Being
>correct is not a factor; having it work is!
>....
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<font size=3D3>Very early MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with two side
ports and a banjo fitting for the hose connetion. The bleeder fitting has
to go in the top port, hose connection to the bottom port.<br><br>
Later MGA had a clutch slave cylinder with one side poet (high) for the
bleeder and one end port (lower) for the hose (same hose), and no banjo
fitting parts.<br><br>
If you're not a concours show enthusiast, then I suggest all early MGA
should be changed to the later style slave cylinder (first time it needs
to be changed), and abandon the banjo fitting parts.<br><br>
The MG clutch is notoriously difficult to bleed the first time, but once
it is working it should stay working. If it loses fluid, you need to fix
the leak point. If it does not lose fluid, but stops working
anyway, that would be rather wierd.<br><br>
<br>
At 12:02 PM 11/25/2023, dave northrup wrote:<br>
<blockquote type=3Dcite class=3Dcite cite=3D"">....<br>
Really having trouble getting my clutch to work and stay working.
several times I=92ve gotten it to work, only to find in a few days that it
no longer works. <br>
<br>
as a result I have never actually driven the car (it came in kit
form).<br>
<br>
I=92ve replaced the master, slave, and hose, all from Scarborough Faire
this time. Thinking I need to maybe replace the metal tubing as
well. which brings me to my question. As opposed to the brake
connection, the slave has a banjo fitting, etc., which seems almost Rube
Goldberg. Is there any reason when I have the new tubing made not
to just skip all that and do it like the brake side? Being correct
is not a factor; having it work is!<br>
=2E...</font></blockquote><div id=3D"DAB4FAD8-2DD7-40BB-A1B8-4E2AA1F9FDF2">=
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