My MGA rebuild resulted in acquiring new rear leaf springs from Moss Motors,
which turned out to be over arched. I took the over-arch out using a hydraulic
press making small adjustments every three or so inches over the length of the
spring. Been driving the car over ten years now at the correct ride height.
> On May 5, 2021, at 4:30 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
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> Today's Topics:
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> 1. Re: Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3 (Joel Martin)
> 2. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
> 3. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
>
>
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
>
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:22:46 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3
> Message-ID: <530119625.263230.1620159766191@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
>
> Moss rear springs lasted about 60K miles. ?Got a pair from buddy on a car
> with only 55K miles a few years ago. ?Back to normal. ?I have about 235K
> miles on car. ?Find someone to make or rear arch your original springs.
> ?The stuff today is just junk.
> On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 02:01:32 PM EDT, mgs-request@autox.team.net
> <mgs-request@autox.team.net> wrote:
>
> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
> ??? mgs@autox.team.net
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> ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> ??? mgs-request@autox.team.net
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> Today's Topics:
>
> ? 1. Re: Ride height (Barrie Robinson)
> ? 2. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
> ? 3. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
> ? 4. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
> Hello Paul,
>
> I got my local Brit car shop to fit springs all round as I had a serious case
> of unequal saggynitis.?? They got them from Moss and all is perfectly fine
> now.
>
> Cheers
> Barrie
>
>> On 5/3/2021 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>>
>> The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of the 'too
>> hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps
>> fastened. ? Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear,
>> people spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!?
>> What you could try is lowering?'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as
>> used?with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts. ? Even with new
>> OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, bottoming and
>> grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles. ? PaulH.
>> ----- Original Message ----- 3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on
>> the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
>>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear
>>> higher than the front.
>>
>> ?
>>
>> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>>
>> ?
>>
>>
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>>
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>>
>> The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on?an MGB (the car that was
>> the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you?fit
>> lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and?the rebound
>> straps become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on the body is now
>> also?closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't be 'compressed'
>> any more than it was before.? And with the same straps?the damper?can't be
>> extended any more?than previously either.?Incorrect springs that give a very
>> raised ride height may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a
>> fast turn, but lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.?PaulH.?-----
>> Original Message -----
>>
>> Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not
>> change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame.? You can
>> correct the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross
>> misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring
>> mounting plate).
>>
>> If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will be
>> royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a rear tire
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer (very
>> dangerous condition).? And if you install longer rebound straps, you will
>> get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>>
>>
>>
>> - ?
>>
>>
>>
>> Yeah, good point.? Sorry about the slip up.? Iforgot the lower pin for the
>> rebound strap is on the axlehousing.
>>
>> Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with toomuch
>> arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of a leaf spring isthat when fully
>> loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.? Thisgives it the highest
>> lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist andmisalign the springs and
>> axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs methe wrong way to have to jury rig an
>> perfectly good assembly toaccommodate use of a faulty replacement part.
>>
>>
>> At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>>
>> The lowermounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was
>> thesubject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you fitlowering
>> blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and therebound straps
>> become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on thebody is now also closer
>> to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can'tbe 'compressed' any more
>> than it was before.? And with the samestraps the damper can't be extended
>> any more than previously either.
>> ?
>> Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride heightmay well cause the
>> problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, butlowering blocks will
>> reduce or eliminate that.
>> ?
>> PaulH.
>>
>>
>>
>> ----- OriginalMessage -----
>>
>> - Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, butdo
>> not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassisframe.? You
>> can correct the ride height that way, but it will notcorrect the gross
>> misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attachedto the lower spring
>> mounting plate).
>>
>>
>> - If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you
>> willbe royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a reartire
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer(very
>> dangerous condition).? And if you install longer reboundstraps, you will get
>> damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>>
>> Amen to that!
>> ----- Original Message ----- Still no excuse for new replacement springs
>> being manufactured with too much arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of
>> a leaf spring is that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no
>> arch.? This gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to
>> twist and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs me
>> the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to accommodate
>> use of a faulty replacement part.
>>
>>
>> - ?
>>
>>
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>> ------------------------------
>>
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 12:07:53 -0400
>> From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
>> To: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>, PaulHunt73
>> <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
>> Cc: h.duinhoven@planet.nl,mgs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
>> Message-ID: <mailman.4.1620237603.1777.mgs@autox.team.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>>
>> Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation
>> to the springs, but do not change the spring
>> height in relation to the body or chassis
>> frame. You can correct the ride height that way,
>> but it will not correct the gross misalignment
>> for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting
>> plate).
>>
>> If the rebould straps are close to taught when at
>> rest, they you will be royally screwed on
>> handling when driving. It will pick a rear tire
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing
>> severe oversteer (very dangerous condition). And
>> if you install longer rebound straps, you will
>> get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>>
>>
>> At 11:43 AM 5/3/2021, Robert's New iPad wrote:
>> I was pleased with the results after the
>> spring company suggested I remove a couple of
>> leaves from the new rear springs. The owner
>> of the shop knew the original height of front
>> springs, as measured by the horizontal trim
>> strip, and my front was low too, though it was not down as much as the rear.
>> Two spring companies I have talked with
>> about this told me that they do not work with
>> automobile springs any more, and that
>> after-market spring quality is quite
>> variable. Spring shops around here work with commercial vehicles.
>> One can make small lowering blocks, 1/2???
>> thick, from the poly-plastic cutting boards
>> sold in kitchen sundry department at Wal-Mart.
>> Bob
>
>
>> On May 3, 2021, at 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73
>> <<mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:
>>
>>> The high rear end after spring replacement is
>>> common and is part of the 'too hard' thing
>>> needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.
>>>
>>> Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to
>>> match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts
>>> of time and money trying to lower MGBs! What
>>> you could try is lowering 'blocks' between the
>>> axle and the springs, as used with parabolic
>>> springs, but may need longer U-bolts.
>>>
>>> Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too
>>> low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding
>>> in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.
>>>
>>> PaulH.
>
>
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> 3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on
>>> the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
>>>
>>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a
>>> dragster with the rear higher than the front.
>>>
>>> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>>> ....
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> ------------------------------
>
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:28:56 +0100
> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
> To: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
> Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
> Message-ID: <AF7EEA78C83848308B7276B6FEE6901C@paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
>
> Funny how things suddenly come to mind when you are doing something
> completely different.
>
> Whilst the rebound strap is on the axle the damper mount IS below the spring.
> If you fit 1" (say) lowering blocks between the axle and the spring,
> positioning the axle closer to the body (and so lowering the ride height),
> then the axle can move 1" further down before the STANDARD rebound strap
> stops it, hence the damper mounting plate has moved 1" further down than
> normal. It's this that could result in the damper hitting its lower limit
> before the rebound strap stops the axle.
>
> I think!
>
> Easy enough to check - when the strap is carrying the weight of the axle it
> should twang like a bow-string, and there should be a little more downward
> movement of the damper mounting plate below the spring. If not, then shorter
> webbing straps can be made up in the US and the UK, or it may be possible to
> 'shorten' one with some kind of clamp that puts a tight curve in it under
> tension instead of being straight.
>
> PaulH.
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: Barney Gaylord
> To: PaulHunt73
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 2:42 PM
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
>
>
> Yeah, good point. Sorry about the slip up. I forgot the lower pin for the
> rebound strap is on the axle housing.
>
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>
> Subject: Digest Footer
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> ------------------------------
>
> End of Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4
> ***********************************
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