mgs
[Top] [All Lists]

Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4

To: mgs@autox.team.net
Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4
From: Steve Weber <weberstevej@aol.com>
Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 19:24:56 -0400
Delivered-to: mharc@autox.team.net
Delivered-to: mgs@autox.team.net
References: <mailman.3.1620237603.1777.mgs@autox.team.net>
My MGA rebuild resulted in acquiring new rear leaf springs from Moss Motors, 
which turned out to be over arched. I took the over-arch out using a hydraulic 
press making small adjustments every three or so inches over the length of the 
spring. Been driving the car over ten years now at the correct ride height.


> On May 5, 2021, at 4:30 PM, mgs-request@autox.team.net wrote:
> 
> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
>    mgs@autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
>    http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
>    mgs-request@autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
>    mgs-owner@autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
> 
> 
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> 
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
>   1. Re: Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3 (Joel Martin)
>   2. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
>   3. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
> 
> 
> ----------------------------------------------------------------------
> 
> Message: 1
> Date: Tue, 4 May 2021 20:22:46 +0000 (UTC)
> From: Joel Martin <jmartiniii@yahoo.com>
> To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 3
> Message-ID: <530119625.263230.1620159766191@mail.yahoo.com>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="utf-8"
> 
> Moss rear springs lasted about 60K miles. ?Got a pair from buddy on a car 
> with only 55K miles a few years ago. ?Back to normal. ?I have about 235K 
> miles on car. ?Find someone to make or rear arch your original springs.
> ?The stuff today is just junk.
>    On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 02:01:32 PM EDT, mgs-request@autox.team.net 
> <mgs-request@autox.team.net> wrote:  
> 
> Send Mgs mailing list submissions to
> ??? mgs@autox.team.net
> 
> To subscribe or unsubscribe via the World Wide Web, visit
> ??? http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> or, via email, send a message with subject or body 'help' to
> ??? mgs-request@autox.team.net
> 
> You can reach the person managing the list at
> ??? mgs-owner@autox.team.net
> 
> When replying, please edit your Subject line so it is more specific
> than "Re: Contents of Mgs digest..."
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation? $12.75
> Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
> Forums: http://www.team.net/forums
> 
> Today's Topics:
> 
> ? 1. Re: Ride height (Barrie Robinson)
> ? 2. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
> ? 3. Re: Ride height (Barney Gaylord)
> ? 4. Re: Ride height (PaulHunt73)
>  Hello Paul,
> 
> I got my local Brit car shop to fit springs all round as I had a serious case 
> of unequal saggynitis.?? They got them from Moss and all is perfectly fine 
> now.
> 
> Cheers
> Barrie
> 
>> On 5/3/2021 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> 
>> The high rear end after spring replacement is common and is part of the 'too 
>> hard' thing needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps 
>> fastened. ? Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to match the rear, 
>> people spend inordinate amounts of time and money trying to lower MGBs!? 
>> What you could try is lowering?'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as 
>> used?with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts. ? Even with new 
>> OEM rears my CB roadster was too low when fully laden, bottoming and 
>> grounding in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles. ? PaulH. 
>> ----- Original Message -----  3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on 
>> the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.  
>>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear 
>>> higher than the front.
>> 
>> ?
>> 
>> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>> 
>> ?
>> 
>> 
>>  _______________________________________________
>> 
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
>> Suggested annual donation  $12.75
>> 
>> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive
>> 
>> Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/barrob@bell.net
>> 
>> 
>>  The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on?an MGB (the car that was 
>> the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you?fit 
>> lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and?the rebound 
>> straps become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on the body is now 
>> also?closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't be 'compressed' 
>> any more than it was before.? And with the same straps?the damper?can't be 
>> extended any more?than previously either.?Incorrect springs that give a very 
>> raised ride height may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a 
>> fast turn, but lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.?PaulH.?----- 
>> Original Message ----- 
>> 
>> Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not 
>> change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame.? You can 
>> correct the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross 
>> misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring 
>> mounting plate).
>> 
>> If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will be 
>> royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a rear tire 
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer (very 
>> dangerous condition).? And if you install longer rebound straps, you will 
>> get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>>      - ?
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> Yeah, good point.? Sorry about the slip up.? Iforgot the lower pin for the 
>> rebound strap is on the axlehousing.
>> 
>> Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with toomuch 
>> arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of a leaf spring isthat when fully 
>> loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch.? Thisgives it the highest 
>> lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist andmisalign the springs and 
>> axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs methe wrong way to have to jury rig an 
>> perfectly good assembly toaccommodate use of a faulty replacement part.
>> 
>> 
>> At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:
>> 
>> The lowermounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was 
>> thesubject of the original enquiry) is on the axle.? So when you fitlowering 
>> blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and therebound straps 
>> become slacker not more taut.? The bump rubber on thebody is now also closer 
>> to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can'tbe 'compressed' any more 
>> than it was before.? And with the samestraps the damper can't be extended 
>> any more than previously either.
>> ?
>> Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride heightmay well cause the 
>> problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, butlowering blocks will 
>> reduce or eliminate that.
>> ?
>> PaulH.
>> 
>> 
>> 
>> ----- OriginalMessage ----- 
>> 
>>      - Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, butdo 
>> not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassisframe.? You 
>> can correct the ride height that way, but it will notcorrect the gross 
>> misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attachedto the lower spring 
>> mounting plate).   
>> 
>> 
>>      - If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you 
>> willbe royally screwed on handling when driving.? It will pick a reartire 
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer(very 
>> dangerous condition).? And if you install longer reboundstraps, you will get 
>> damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>> 
>> Amen to that!
>> ----- Original Message ----- Still no excuse for new replacement springs 
>> being manufactured with too much arch (and too high spring rate).? Theory of 
>> a leaf spring is that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no 
>> arch.? This gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to 
>> twist and misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering.? It just rubs me 
>> the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to accommodate 
>> use of a faulty replacement part.
>> 
>> 
>>      - ?
>> 
>> 
>> _______________________________________________
>> Mgs mailing list
>> Mgs@autox.team.net
>> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
>> 
>> -------------- next part --------------
>> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
>> URL: 
>> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210504/b6202175/attachment-0001.htm>
>> 
>> ------------------------------
>> 
>> Message: 2
>> Date: Mon, 03 May 2021 12:07:53 -0400
>> From: Barney Gaylord <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
>> To: Robert's New iPad <mgbobh@gmail.com>, PaulHunt73
>>    <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
>> Cc: h.duinhoven@planet.nl,mgs@autox.team.net
>> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
>> Message-ID: <mailman.4.1620237603.1777.mgs@autox.team.net>
>> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"; Format="flowed"
>> 
>> Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation 
>> to the springs, but do not change the spring 
>> height in relation to the body or chassis 
>> frame.  You can correct the ride height that way, 
>> but it will not correct the gross misalignment 
>> for the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting 
>> plate).
>> 
>> If the rebould straps are close to taught when at 
>> rest, they you will be royally screwed on 
>> handling when driving.  It will pick a rear tire
>> completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing 
>> severe oversteer (very dangerous condition).  And 
>> if you install longer rebound straps, you will
>> get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
>> 
>> 
>> At 11:43 AM 5/3/2021, Robert's New iPad wrote:
>>    I was pleased with the results after the 
>> spring company suggested I remove a couple of 
>> leaves from the new rear springs.    The owner 
>> of the shop knew the original height of front 
>> springs, as measured by the horizontal trim
>> strip, and my front was low too, though it was not down as much as the rear.
>>   Two spring companies I have talked with 
>> about this told me that they do not work with 
>> automobile springs any more, and that 
>> after-market spring quality is quite 
>> variable.  Spring shops around here work with commercial vehicles.
>>   One can make small lowering blocks, 1/2??? 
>> thick, from the poly-plastic cutting boards 
>> sold in kitchen sundry department at Wal-Mart.
>> Bob
> 
> 
>> On May 3, 2021, at 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 
>> <<mailto:paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>paulhunt73@virginmedia.com> wrote:
>> 
>>> The high rear end after spring replacement is 
>>> common and is part of the 'too hard' thing 
>>> needing extra weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.
>>> 
>>> Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to 
>>> match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts 
>>> of time and money trying to lower MGBs!  What 
>>> you could try is lowering 'blocks' between the 
>>> axle and the springs, as used with parabolic 
>>> springs, but may need longer U-bolts.
>>> 
>>> Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too 
>>> low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding 
>>> in country lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.
>>> 
>>> PaulH.
> 
> 
>>> ----- Original Message -----
>>> 3 years ago I got an MOT safety test fail on
>>> the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.
>>> 
>>> From that moment on the car looks a bit like a 
>>> dragster with the rear higher than the front.
>>> 
>>> So I should look for replacement front coils.
>>> ....
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210503/5b21bcd4/attachment.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Message: 3
> Date: Wed, 5 May 2021 10:28:56 +0100
> From: "PaulHunt73" <paulhunt73@virginmedia.com>
> To: "Barney Gaylord" <barneymg@mgaguru.com>
> Cc: <mgs@autox.team.net>
> Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
> Message-ID: <AF7EEA78C83848308B7276B6FEE6901C@paul>
> Content-Type: text/plain; charset="iso-8859-1"
> 
> Funny how things suddenly come to mind when you are doing something 
> completely different.
> 
> Whilst the rebound strap is on the axle the damper mount IS below the spring. 
>  If you fit 1" (say) lowering blocks between the axle and the spring, 
> positioning the axle closer to the body (and so lowering the ride height), 
> then the axle can move 1" further down before the STANDARD rebound strap 
> stops it, hence the damper mounting plate has moved 1" further down than 
> normal.  It's this that could result in the damper hitting its lower limit 
> before the rebound strap stops the axle.  
> 
> I think!
> 
> Easy enough to check - when the strap is carrying the weight of the axle it 
> should twang like a bow-string, and there should be a little more downward 
> movement of the damper mounting plate below the spring.  If not, then shorter 
> webbing straps can be made up in the US and the UK, or it may be possible to 
> 'shorten' one with some kind of clamp that puts a tight curve in it under 
> tension instead of being straight.
> 
> PaulH.
>  ----- Original Message ----- 
>  From: Barney Gaylord 
>  To: PaulHunt73 
>  Cc: mgs@autox.team.net 
>  Sent: Tuesday, May 04, 2021 2:42 PM
>  Subject: Re: [Mgs] Ride height
> 
> 
>  Yeah, good point.  Sorry about the slip up.  I forgot the lower pin for the 
> rebound strap is on the axle housing.
> 
> -------------- next part --------------
> An HTML attachment was scrubbed...
> URL: 
> <http://autox.team.net/pipermail/mgs/attachments/20210505/fed91141/attachment-0001.htm>
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> Subject: Digest Footer
> 
> _______________________________________________
> Mgs mailing list
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/mgs
> 
> 
> ------------------------------
> 
> End of Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4
> ***********************************

_______________________________________________

Mgs@autox.team.net
Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation  $12.75

Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs http://autox.team.net/archive

Unsubscribe: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mharc@autox.team.net
<Prev in Thread] Current Thread [Next in Thread>
  • Re: [Mgs] Mgs Digest, Vol 168, Issue 4, Steve Weber <=