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<div>Moss rear springs lasted about 60K miles. Got a pair from buddy on a car with only 55K miles a few years ago. Back to normal. I have about 235K miles on car. Find someone to make or rear arch your original springs.</div><div><br></div><div> The stuff today is just junk.</div><div><br></div>
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On Tuesday, May 4, 2021, 02:01:32 PM EDT, mgs-request@autox.team.net <mgs-request@autox.team.net> wrote:
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<font size="-1"><font face="Arial">Hello Paul,<br>
<br>
I got my local Brit car shop to fit springs all round as I had a
serious case of unequal saggynitis. They got them from Moss
and all is perfectly fine now.<br>
<br>
Cheers<br>
Barrie<br>
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<div class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949moz-cite-prefix">On 5/3/2021 11:24 AM, PaulHunt73 wrote:<br>
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<div><font size="2">The high rear end after spring replacement is
common and is part of the 'too hard' thing needing extra
weight in the boot to get the rebound straps fastened.</font></div>
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<div><font size="2">Personally I wouldn't jack up the front to
match the rear, people spend inordinate amounts of time and
money trying to lower MGBs! What you could try is
lowering 'blocks' between the axle and the springs, as
used with parabolic springs, but may need longer U-bolts.</font></div>
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<div><font size="2">Even with new OEM rears my CB roadster was too
low when fully laden, bottoming and grounding in country
lanes, I ended up extending the rear shackles.</font></div>
<div> </div>
<div><font size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;" dir="ltr">
<div style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-family: arial;">----- Original Message ----- </div>
<div style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-family: arial; background-color: rgb(228, 228, 228); background-position: initial initial; background-repeat: initial initial;"><span lang="EN-GB">3 years ago I got an MOT safety test
fail on the sagged rear springs, so these were replaced.</span></div>
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<p class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">From that moment on
the car looks a bit like a dragster with the rear higher
than the front.</span></p>
<p class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB"> </span></p>
<p class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949MsoNormal"><span lang="EN-GB">So I should look for
replacement front coils.</span></p>
<p class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949MsoNormal"> </p>
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<div><font size="2">The lower mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB
(the car that was the subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle. So
when you fit lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle
and the rebound straps become slacker not more taut. The bump rubber
on the body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper
can't be 'compressed' any more than it was before. And with the same
straps the damper can't be extended any more than previously
either.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font size="2">Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height may well
cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but lowering blocks
will reduce or eliminate that.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div><font size="2">PaulH.</font></div>
<div><font size="2"></font> </div>
<div>----- Original Message ----- </div>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;" dir="ltr">
<div><font size="2"></font><font size="2"></font><br></div><font size="3">Lowering
blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but do not change the
spring height in relation to the body or chassis frame. You can correct
the ride height that way, but it will not correct the gross misalignment for
the rebound straps (which are attached to the lower spring mounting
plate).<br><br>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they
you will be royally screwed on handling when driving. It will pick a
rear tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer
(very dangerous condition). And if you install longer rebound straps,
you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.<br></font>
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<dd><font size="2"></font> </dd></dl></blockquote></blockquote></blockquote></div>
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<font size="3">Yeah, good point. Sorry about the slip up. I
forgot the lower pin for the rebound strap is on the axle
housing.<br><br>
Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with too
much arch (and too high spring rate). Theory of a leaf spring is
that when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch. This
gives it the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist and
misalign the springs and axle in hard cornering. It just rubs me
the wrong way to have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to
accommodate use of a faulty replacement part.<br><br>
<br>
At 03:32 AM 5/4/2021, PaulHunt73 wrote:<br>
</font><blockquote type="cite" class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949cite"><font size="2">The lower
mounting point for the rebound strap on an MGB (the car that was the
subject of the original enquiry) is on the axle. So when you fit
lowering blocks the body becomes lower relative to the axle and the
rebound straps become slacker not more taut. The bump rubber on the
body is now also closer to the pedestal on the axle, so the damper can't
be 'compressed' any more than it was before. And with the same
straps the damper can't be extended any more than previously either.<br>
</font><font size="3"> <br>
</font><font size="2">Incorrect springs that give a very raised ride height
may well cause the problem of picking up a rear tyre in a fast turn, but
lowering blocks will reduce or eliminate that.<br>
</font><font size="3"> <br>
</font><font size="2">PaulH.</font></blockquote><br><br>
<blockquote type="cite" class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949cite"><font size="3">----- Original
Message ----- <br>
</font>
<dl>
<dd>Lowering blocks raise the rear axle in relation to the springs, but
do not change the spring height in relation to the body or chassis
frame. You can correct the ride height that way, but it will not
correct the gross misalignment for the rebound straps (which are attached
to the lower spring mounting plate).<br><br>
</dd><dd>If the rebould straps are close to taught when at rest, they you will
be royally screwed on handling when driving. It will pick a rear
tire completely off the ground in a fast turn, causing severe oversteer
(very dangerous condition). And if you install longer rebound
straps, you will get damage to the lever arm shocks from overtravel.
</dd></dl></blockquote></div>
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<div><font size="2">Amen to that!</font></div>
<blockquote style="BORDER-LEFT:#000000 2px solid;PADDING-LEFT:5px;PADDING-RIGHT:0px;MARGIN-LEFT:5px;MARGIN-RIGHT:0px;" dir="ltr">
<div style="font-style: normal; font-weight: normal; font-stretch: normal; font-size: 10pt; line-height: normal; font-family: arial;">----- Original Message ----- </div><font size="3">Still no excuse for new replacement springs being manufactured with too
much arch (and too high spring rate). Theory of a leaf spring is that
when fully loaded it should be straight, flat, no arch. This gives it
the highest lateral stiffness and least tendency to twist and misalign the
springs and axle in hard cornering. It just rubs me the wrong way to
have to jury rig an perfectly good assembly to accommodate use of a faulty
replacement part.<br></font>
<blockquote class="ydpc939c689yiv4978094949cite" type="cite">
<dl>
<dd> </dd></dl></blockquote></blockquote></div>
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