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Hello folks,
I feel oh sort of superior! An unusual feeling in the MG world as I am a
novice. When I built my MGB GT V8 I was determined to make it bullet
proof even if it meant not being "original". There is a chap, whose name
escapes me, who put out an electrical wiring harness design which was
"point to point". He was a big time engineer in Triumph so I followed
his design and actually bought parts form him. It had a central
"control box" with solenoids, fuses etc etc. So that's what I have in
my GT. Bags of fuses and there are no branches causing confusion.
It is not original true, but then it is bulletproof. Probably no more
expensive than buying a harness from British Wiring or others if you do
it yourself.
I have his article, complete with diagrams, from the British V8 outfit
which was pure MGs but now any Brit V8 !!
Barrie.
On 1/16/2020 2:41 PM, Hans Duinhoven via Mgs wrote:
>
> Looking to your picture, I think it is better to do a thorough wiring
> job.
>
> It looks, like the car has been exposed to ?nature? for many times.
>
> This means, a lot of contacts are suspect of being poor or bad.
>
> So besides true fault finding, I?d dismantle all wiring and get all
> contacts cleaned.
>
> Clean all bullet connectors and replace all their interconnects.
>
> Clean all other connectors and replace these when they are bad.
>
> I did this with my BGT in 1996 and after that job I never had any
> electrical failures, besides a faulty alternator (diode pack) and
> starter solenoid, where the nut did not keep the 12 V wires fixed
> anymore.
>
> So get a matching electrical diagram of the car?s built year.
>
> The Haynes MGB manual always helped me out.
>
> Hope this helps for the long term.
>
> Cheers,
>
> Hans
>
> ?71 BGT
>
> *Van:*Mgs [mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net] *Namens *Max Heim via Mgs
> *Verzonden:* donderdag 16 januari 2020 20:20
> *Aan:* Michael MacLean
> *CC:* MGs
> *Onderwerp:* Re: [Mgs] Electrical Nightmare
>
> I think you still have a ground problem. Should the steering column
> have a separate ground wire on a 69? I know there is one in the turn
> signal harness.
>
> It does help to consult the wiring diagram, to figure out where the
> common grounds are.
>
> --
>
> Max Heim
>
> '66 MGB
>
> On Jan 16, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Michael MacLean via Mgs
>
> In an earlier post I told how my tach in my 69 GT would die when
> the headlights were turned on. Someone mentioned that the tach
> was looking for a ground through the light wiring for the
> instrument. That turned out to be true, somewhat. To test this I
> pulled the instrument to inspect the wiring and found what you see
> in the picture. One arrow points to the ground connection on the
> back of the case and the other arrow points to a common ground
> just floating around behind the instrument. For an experiment I
> slipped the ground wire connector over the threaded mouting stud
> of the case back and shoved the tach back into place temporarily
> to find out about the missing ground theory. It worked! You
> didn't think it was going to be that easy did you? The light had
> not illuminated the instrument before either, so after scraping
> and sanding the bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of the
> tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked too, but wait
> there's more! After this hollow victory I had to use the horn on
> the test drive. Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the
> steering wheel stalk to activate the horn, the brake warning light
> comes on. I just love electrical problems. Not in my element
> here. Any ideas?
>
> Mike MacLean
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
> Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/mgs
> http://autox.team.net/archive
>
> Unsubscribe:
> http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/mgs/mvheim@sonic.net
>
>
> _______________________________________________
>
> Mgs@autox.team.net
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
> Suggested annual donation $12.75
>
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>
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<font size="-1"><font face="Arial">Hello folks,<br>
<br>
I feel oh sort of superior! An unusual feeling in the MG world
as I am a novice. When I built my MGB GT V8 I was determined to
make it bullet proof even if it meant not being "original".
There is a chap, whose name escapes me, who put out an
electrical wiring harness design which was "point to point".
He was a big time engineer in Triumph so I followed his design
and actually bought parts form him. It had a central "control
box" with solenoids, fuses etc etc. So that's what I have in
my GT. Bags of fuses and there are no branches causing
confusion. It is not original true, but then it is
bulletproof. Probably no more expensive than buying a harness
from British Wiring or others if you do it yourself.<br>
<br>
I have his article, complete with diagrams, from the British V8
outfit which was pure MGs but now any Brit V8 !!<br>
<br>
Barrie.<br>
</font></font><br>
<div class="moz-cite-prefix">On 1/16/2020 2:41 PM, Hans Duinhoven
via Mgs wrote:<br>
</div>
<blockquote type="cite"
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<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">Looking to your picture, I think it is better
to do a thorough wiring job. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">It looks, like the car has been exposed to
?nature? for many times. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">This means, a lot of contacts are suspect of
being poor or bad. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">So besides true fault finding, I?d dismantle
all wiring and get all contacts cleaned.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">Clean all bullet connectors and replace all
their interconnects.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">Clean all other connectors and replace these
when they are bad.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">I did this with my BGT in 1996 and after that
job I never had any electrical failures, besides a faulty
alternator (diode pack) and starter solenoid, where the nut
did not keep the 12 V wires fixed anymore. <o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">So get a matching electrical diagram of the
car?s built year.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">The Haynes MGB manual always helped me
out.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">Hope this helps for the long
term.<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">Cheers,<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">Hans<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US">?71 BGT<o:p></o:p></span></p>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:11.0pt;font-family:"Calibri","sans-serif";color:#1F497D"
lang="EN-US"><o:p> </o:p></span></p>
<div>
<div style="border:none;border-top:solid #B5C4DF
1.0pt;padding:3.0pt 0cm 0cm 0cm">
<p class="MsoNormal"><b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">Van:</span></b><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;font-family:"Tahoma","sans-serif"">
Mgs [<a class="moz-txt-link-freetext"
href="mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net";>mailto:mgs-bounces@autox.team.net</a>]
<b>Namens </b>Max
Heim via Mgs<br>
<b>Verzonden:</b> donderdag 16 januari 2020 20:20<br>
<b>Aan:</b> Michael MacLean<br>
<b>CC:</b> MGs<br>
<b>Onderwerp:</b> Re: [Mgs] Electrical
Nightmare<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<p class="MsoNormal">I think you still have a ground problem.
Should the steering column have a separate ground wire on a
69? I know there is one in the turn signal harness.<o:p></o:p></p>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">It does help to consult the wiring
diagram, to figure out where the common grounds are.<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;color:black">--<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;color:black">Max
Heim<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><span
style="font-size:10.0pt;color:black">'66
MGB<o:p></o:p></span></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<blockquote style="margin-top:5.0pt;margin-bottom:5.0pt">
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">On Jan 16, 2020, at 11:06 AM, Michael
MacLean via Mgs <<a href="mailto:mgs@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">mgs@autox.team.net</a>>
wrote:<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">In an earlier post I told how
my tach in my 69 GT would die when the headlights
were turned on. Someone mentioned that the tach
was looking for a ground through the light wiring
for the instrument. That turned out to be true,
somewhat. To test this I pulled the instrument to
inspect the wiring and found what you see in the
picture. One arrow points to the ground
connection on the back of the case and the other
arrow points to a common ground just floating
around behind the instrument. For an experiment I
slipped the ground wire connector over the
threaded mouting stud of the case back and shoved
the tach back into place temporarily to find out
about the missing ground theory. It worked! You
didn't think it was going to be that easy did
you? The light had not illuminated the instrument
before either, so after scraping and sanding the
bulb hlder and the tube fitting on the back of the
tach that the bulb shoves into, the light worked
too, but wait there's more! After this hollow
victory I had to use the horn on the test drive.
Now the horn does not work, but when I push on the
steering wheel stalk to activate the horn, the
brake warning light comes on. I just love
electrical problems. Not in my element here. Any
ideas?<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
<div>
<p class="MsoNormal">Mike MacLean<o:p></o:p></p>
</div>
</div>
</div>
<p
class="MsoNormal">_______________________________________________<br>
<br>
<a href="mailto:Mgs@autox.team.net";
moz-do-not-send="true">Mgs@autox.team.net</a><br>
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</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
<p class="MsoNormal"><o:p> </o:p></p>
</div>
<br>
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<pre class="moz-quote-pre"
wrap="">_______________________________________________
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