Last year, due to multiple clutch problems, I removed & replaced (R&R'd) my MGB
engine 4 or 5 times. Got the time down to about 4 hours total (1-1/2 out,
2-1/2 in). Also did the BMC 948 in the Turner twice. At no time did I have
any help. So, here's my Two-cents:
A - Use Grade 5 bolts & washers for: front manifold stud hole & right-rear head
stud. (Yes, this requires re-torquing the head. But, that's a good thing to
do.) I have been told that Grade 8 bolts are more brittle than Grade 5. So,
better to use 5's.
B - DO NOT use rope or straps to lift! A fellow LBC racer did that last year &
it nearly cost him a finger. The BRAND NEW strap he used was rated for over
1,000 lbs. But, it must have caught an edge or something & it snapped. The
engine fell. But, thanks to micro-surgery, he still has all of his fingers.
But, he was out of racing for about 4 months with casts, bandages, etc. on his
hand. So, use a length of good chain. And, be careful.
C - You DO NOT need to remove the trans with the engine. Everyone said it
would be very difficult to align the splines on the pilot shaft with the clutch
disc. However, on almost every installation, I was able to get perfect
alignment on the very first try. Once it took all of about a minute & a half
to get it. You will need one of the clutch alignment tools to preserve disc
alignment while bolting up the pressure plate.
D - A floor jack under the front of the transmission is the only other assist
needed.
The above allows sufficient alteration of the angle of the engine with just a
little bit of muscle. And, it works with relative safety & ease.
Norm Sippel
'66 MGB
'59 Turner
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