Thanks Skye,
The low beams already had a relay installed from the time I converted to
H4's.
But the short was in the circuit on the rheostat, which is unfused, so this
line will be fused next saturday. Beware of old style cables of the heater
and air controls, which are metal on the outer side. When not routed
carefully these may hit the live contacts of the rheostat or something else,
which make a short.
The cables are routed fine now.
Cheers,
Hans
'71 BGT ready for sunday tour!
----- Original Message -----
From: Skye Poier <skye@ffwd.cx>
To: MG Nuts <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Tuesday, April 16, 2002 12:52 AM
Subject: Re: How much current headlights
> Hans,
>
> Have you considered putting the headlights on a relay? That way if it
> shorts in the future, its my guess that the less amps running
> through the wire would not cause as catastrophic of a meltdown...
>
> I am probably going to put the headlights and heater fan on fused
> relays when I put the new wiring in my car.
>
> Skye
>
> Word on the street is Hans Duinhoven said:
> > Hi list,
> >
> > My GT is back on the road.
> > I replaced the fried wire in the loom from the lights switch to the
rheostat.
> > The outer (metal) cable of the air ventilating system hit the rheostat
and
> > made a short.
> >
> > In order to prevent another time happening this I plan to add a line
fuse for
> > the lights.
> > What rating should it have? I have converted the original sealed beams
to H4
> > halogens and I still use the sidemarker lights.
> > I'd like to fuse the complete lights circuit or should I fuses the dash
> > seperately from the rest?
> >
> > TIA.
> >
> > Cheers,
> >
> > Hans '71
/// or try http://www.team.net/cgi-bin/majorcool
/// Archives at http://www.team.net/archive
|