If you do that you run the risk of losing all lights simultaneously if any
of a considerable amount of wiring should happen to ground. If you have the
presence of mind you could pull on the headlamp flasher to give you forward
vision at least until you stopped. You could put an in-line in the
red/green, but could still lose all tail lights (and front sides but this is
insignificant if headlights are on). Headlights really should be fused one
per filament, but unless you run new wires from the double-connectors by the
RH headlight all the way back to the switch you will still have some
unprotected wiring. Even then the brown to the switch, the switch itself
and the last little bits of wire from switch to in-lines are unprotected.
If you were *really* paranoid you could put another in-line in the brown to
the switch, rated at say 4-times the individual headlight fuses.
More recent cars have fusible links rated at 40 and 80 amps in the brown
wires from the solenoid to the alternator and the car to protect the
'unprotected' brown circuit. Some have a fused 12v supply to the 'common'
wire of the headlights and switch the ground to light the required beam.
Saves two fuses and protects the whole of the wiring, switches and relays
against grounding. In the case of an 89 Toyota Celica the headlight fuses
are 15amps.
----- Original Message -----
From: "Hans Duinhoven" <h.duinhoven@planet.nl>
To: <mgs@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, April 13, 2002 8:49 AM
Subject: How much current headlights
> Hi list,
>
> My GT is back on the road.
> I replaced the fried wire in the loom from the lights switch to the
rheostat.
> The outer (metal) cable of the air ventilating system hit the rheostat and
> made a short.
>
> In order to prevent another time happening this I plan to add a line fuse
for
> the lights.
> What rating should it have? I have converted the original sealed beams to
H4
> halogens and I still use the sidemarker lights.
> I'd like to fuse the complete lights circuit or should I fuses the dash
> seperately from the rest?
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