I generally agree with everything Art says, but would like to embellish =
his comment on 'hot tanking'. This will also depend on the shop you are =
using, and what facilities it has, My personal preference is to remove =
all oil gallery plugs. The numbers and locations vary with which type =
of engine you are doing. These are brass plug that terminate oil =
galleries, or drilled holes in the block casting, that routes oil to the =
proper place. These areas/galleries can build up all sorts of crud over =
the years. Without removing the plugs, and cleaning the galleries, =
thoroughly, will you ever get all of the crud out. This process usually =
takes lots of solvent and pressure. Heat can speed the process. If =
your shop can blast out the galleries, then good. If they are just =
going to use an over grown version of a dishwasher, then Art is right, =
not much to be gained. Again, from my point of view, cleaning the =
galleries is critical. 95% of the galleries conduct filtered oil to the =
bearings. (The missing 5% is the gallery that runs from the pump, =
diagonally across the block to the 'snout' fitting that then passes oil =
to the cooler and/or filter). If you do not do a thorough job of =
cleaning these galleries out, then all you have done is to loosen =
existing crud, so that when that new oil comes coursing through the =
'veins' of your fresh rebuild, you take that crud directly to you new =
bearings! That's a pleasant thought! So unless you want to use bungee =
cord or velcro motor mounts, make sure that the block is clean, inside =
and out! (Been there, done that, I designed the 'T' shirt!)
George Merryweather
Should you want further info. i.e. locations of the gallery plugs, let =
me know.
----------
From: Art Pfenninger[SMTP:ch155@FreeNet.Buffalo.EDU]
Sent: Sunday, October 26, 1997 6:19 PM
To: DANIEL RAY
Cc: 'Skip Kelsey'; 'MG List'
Subject: RE: engine considerations - Time?
As has been stated it should take 1 day to take the engine out and
dismantle it. Figure about 5 hours in the dismantling process. It will
take about 12 hours to put it back together. This will allow time for
breaks and thinking. As a matter of course the following should be
renewed. The bearings, but not necessarly the cam bearings. The rings,
gaskets and seals, all the spring washers and lock tabs,the timing
chain,the oil pressure relief valve and spring. The other parts will
depend on where. Once the engine is dismantled the block will be light
enough to pick up and put in the trunk to take to the machine shop for
inspection. The crank and block both need to be evaluated. You can get a
pretty good idea if you'll need cylinder work by the amount of ridge =
that
you find at the top of the cylinders. With everything apart you may want
to consider doing the head as well. The head for the B is cheap so don't
spend too much fixing the one you have. You don't need to have the
tank hot dipped if you think it costs too much. A gallon of karosene =
some
spray engine cleaner and a turkey baster are all you really need. Take a
look at Moss MOtoring from last year the one with the TR3 on the cover =
for
additional tips. This will be one of the most rewarding jobs that you =
will
do as well as one of the most educational. Once done you will understand
how things work. You will also know first hand what parts are new in the
engine. Good luck with the project.
...Art
On Thu, 23 Oct 1997, DANIEL RAY wrote:
> Listers:
> What's the average time for a B engine rebuild? I know there are lots =
of variables here, but for a good, "I've never done this before", take =
your time and do it right but don't dawdle rebuild, how many "man-hours" =
er..., "person-hours" ;) are we talking here? Rough estimate?
> Like a couple of other folks on the list, I'm military, so have access =
to the "Auto Craft Shop" on post which has every standard tool one could =
want, lifts, hoists, stands, etc, but its $2/day for the space, and I'm =
pretty sure they'd want me to move it to the storage lot while the parts =
are in the machine shop.
> Just wondering, because this is something I'd really rather do myself, =
if nothing else for the experience, not to mention the $$$ factor!
> TIA
> Dan
>=20
> ----------
> From: Skip Kelsey
> Sent: Thursday, October 23, 1997 6:18 PM
> To: Nina Barton; Mike Hartwig; Larry A Hoy
> Cc: mgs@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: engine considerations
>=20
> Nina:
>=20
> Good luck!
>=20
> Skip............At 01:27 PM 10/23/97 -0700, Nina Barton wrote:
> >At 1:20 PM 10/23/97 -0500, Mike Hartwig wrote:
> >
> >>I'll have spent around $1000 in parts and machine shop work for my =
'70 B.
> >>Free labor puts total at $1000. Consider rebuilding yourself.
> >>It's rewarding and you get to learn a lot. Plus you get grease all =
over
> your
> >>hands. Cooool!
> >>
> >>jay
> >
> >Yeah, and I'll get the added experience I always felt I missed out on =
as a
> >high schooler - auto shop!! I made the mistake of taking cooking =
instead.
> >Seriously, with the expertise of this list, and the MG friends made =
in the
> >past year, I'm seriously considering doing it myself. Just have to =
set up
> >a workbench and save enough out of my monthly budget to afford the =
parts.
> >Wish me luck! Nina
> >
> >
> >
> >
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
>=20
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