Actually, that's exactly the plan I had. I always seem to get myself
into this situation where I'm pulling a flywheel or pulley and have to
put bolts in something then jam a two by four into the works to hold it
still. And it always seems to happen when there's no one around to hold
the other end. Fortunately, there are only about three thread sizes on
the whole car, so I've got a bunch of extra bolts around.
I do need to go home and measure the bolt again, because a number of
people have said it has a 1-5/16" head, yet I could swear I measured it
at a hair over 1-1/2". Those big sockets aren't cheap, and I need the
cash to buy a camshaft. Got the [flourescent] inspection light into it
last night. The lobes are as worn as your favorite pair of blue jeans.
Anyway, the only cam recommendation I've gotten is the Piper 270 (which
I've heard good things about before). Anyone else got a success story
to share?
Lastly, didn't someone say something about removing the engine id plate
before having the block hot-tanked? What was that all about?
Matt Kulka
'74 B - "It's my grandfather's MG - I've replaced the motor twice and
the body three times."
>>> Larry Macy <macy@bblmail.psycha.upenn.edu> 10/09/97 11:01am >>>
Matt
If you have the engine on a mount is there room to put two bolts back in
the end of the crank where the flywheel bolts on? If so stick two in and
use a prybar...
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