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Re: Brake/Stop Light Switch

To: Stu Keen <simbafish@comcast.net>
Subject: Re: Brake/Stop Light Switch
From: Bud Krueger <budkrueger@earthlink.net>
Date: Thu, 10 Jul 2003 19:38:49 -0400
Stu,

       The switch is sealed, but is fairly easy to replace.  There is no 
pressure in the brake system when the pedal is released.  Brake fluid 
will not pour out when you remove the old switch.  At least that has 
been my experience.  A replacement switch is available from your 
neighborhood NAPA store, their Echlin SL144 if I recall correctly.

Bud Krueger
52TD

Stu Keen wrote:

>Brake Switch Problem -
>
>Is there a way to clean the brake/stop light switch on a TD? Mine is
>installed on a four way brake line junction just aft of the master cylinder.
>If I remove it to inspect, will brake fluid pour out and I will have to
>purge the system? It seems apparent that this is a pneumatic system, that it
>works off of the brake fluid pressure, i.e. not mechanical off the pedal.
>Having never removed one, I don't know what to expect. Would appreciate a
>clue. 
>
>Although a replacement switch is relatively inexpensive, it's the time
>factor I am concerned about, as I would like to get the car back on the road
>for this weekend. Thus, if the switch can be cleaned, then I will do that as
>a temporary measure.
>
>I discovered (was told) last night that I did not have brake lights. Regular
>tail lights worked fine. Spent half today trying to diagnosis the problem.
>Using an ohmmeter across the brake switch, it reads a dead short when the
>brake pedal is depressed, as expected (ignition OFF). If I disconnect the
>stop light wires (purple/white and brown/white) at rear, thus no load,  I
>read my expected 12 volts at the brake switch or at the rear when pedal is
>depressed.  However, when the bulbs are reconnected, thus presenting a load,
>it is a different story. The voltage at the switch, when pedal is depressed,
>is then zero or near zero. The switch just will not pass more than a few
>milliamps (like my ohmmeter) across it. Contacts must be oxidized, worn,
>dirty etc. Thank you Lucas!
>
>Brakes are fine, MC reservoir is full.  Installed new bulbs, but this did
>not correct the problem. Disconnected tail light and license plate wires,
>but still no voltage at switch. Sequentially disconnected stop light wires,
>no improvement. Has to be the brake switch (unless someone has another
>idea). 
>
>So in conclusion, can I remove the switch for inspection without all the
>brake fluid pouring out? The workshop manual and pass TSOs do not address
>this issue.
>
>Thanks for any help or suggestions.
>
>Stu Keen
>1951 MGTD MkII

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