Ian
1. The rain panel
I made ours in alum nearly 30 years ago and it's still OK, but use 1.2mm
alum. Original is 1mm steel. Whichever material you use it will work harden
as you form it and you will need to #repeat# the annealing as you work the
gutter shape into it.
2. The panelling
The panels are assembled in the order described so that the overlap keeps
the water out of the body woodwork. The T-section is about the same width as
the side/top panel return and sits on it, so it's really not obvious that
the panel has been formed over the edge of the rain panel. It all goes
together fine, but if you don't believe me try with some bits of scrap alum
and convince yourself. Remember quite a few thousand of these bodies were
made and I'm sure the body-builders got plenty of practice getting
satisfactory results for minimum time/cost, so it's best to follow what they
did if you possibly can.
3. The T-section
This fits with the smaller arm outward/upward, and the wider arm toward the
inside of the car to take the screws. I don't know what was original, but I
used 2BA screws with nuts on the inside of the body frame. If it isn't soft
already it needs to be annealed in the area where the direction changes from
horizontal to vertical. Again, if necessary anneal more than once as you
work.
When you fit the bonnet rest, remember that it needs to be far enough inside
the outside line of the body to leave room for the bonnet panel #and# the
webbing strip that prevents chafing between the two pieces of metal. I found
this difficult to judge.
Regards
Dave Dwyer
J2, TA, TC
Sydney
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