In a message dated 1/8/2002 12:06:10 PM Pacific Standard Time,
gfp61@mindspring.com writes:
>
>
> Hey, all:
>
> I'm contemplating building a fiberglass-shell, steel-tube-frame belly-tank
> lakester powered by a naturally aspirated 350 small block. A couple of
> questions:
>
> 1. Anyone have any idea how much such a beast would weigh in ready-to-run
> condition, with an adult driver of average size?
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Gary,
Depends on the wheelbase and how stout you build it. Hard question to
answer. My old 170"WB GoldDigger weighed about 1600# wet, with the driver. It
only had body from the front of the engine Fwd. (rear engine car).
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>
> 2. If I'm looking to build an engine that has a lot of top-end power and
> not a lot of low-end torque (which I'm assuming--maybe incorrectly--applies
> to LSR cars), can anyone recommend a ballpark cam and valvetrain
> combination? I'm not looking for exact numbers, just a rough idea about the
> sort of lift, duration and timing, etc., that I should be aiming for.
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The cam range should keep the engine R's from falling out of the
torque band when you shift gears at the top end. Using your tranny ratios,
figure what your engine R's will drop to when you make your last couple of
shifts. If you have a narrow torque band you might "fall out the bottom of
the cam" and have a helluva time getting the R's back up to where the engine
starts pulling against wind resistance. This isn't a factor in the lower
gears, but many racers learn the hard way not to try and pull more gear than
the cam/engine combination can handle.......Ardun Doug
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>
> Thanks for any help!
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