--===============8794911869627470316==
boundary="----=_Part_8332123_9000283.1735609572430"
------=_Part_8332123_9000283.1735609572430
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
If there were room for a full radiator shroud,=C2=A0that would help. Otherw=
ise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) ar=
e inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary=
electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on =
when you know you=E2=80=99ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a=
show. I=E2=80=99ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, =
160-degree F thermostat,=C2=A0and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan i=
s the trick.=C2=A0
Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS
On Monday, December 30, 2024, 8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@aut=
ox.team.net> wrote:
re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks tha=
t we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual en=
gine block surface"
=20
I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave exactl=
y the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines will not reac=
h thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat up when sitting at id=
le. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer days, but start to heat up =
quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can only attribute the difference to a=
irflow temp.
=20
=20
On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fuller wrote:
=20
=20
Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information =
is displayed?=20
________________
Sent from my phone=20
Best Regards,
Al Fuller =20
On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30=E2=80=AFAM Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net> wr=
ote:
=20
Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was work=
ing hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Another=
technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank th=
at ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a relatively simp=
le project and works well. I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via=
multiplexed switches :
WT - Smiths std gauge
OT- oil temp at filter EC - engine compartment near carb intakes TH - top=
hose water temp
Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; =
160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold hav=
e 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
Most interesting observations are: Oil takes longer than we think to get =
close to operating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long a=
fter the stat. opens
TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading EC and OT rise rapidly when=
no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling e=
ffect of cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface. Airflow is so=
mewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstructs and no easy exit. Often wo=
ndered if an extractor fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and s=
ides to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs badly when EC=
is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inlet air. Use the EWP when appro=
aching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but seems to prevent furthe=
r increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for controlling he=
at soak after cutting the engine.
Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an obs=
truction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling. Monitorin=
g OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
rg
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
=20
On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com> wrote:
=20
Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occas=
ion. The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in tr=
affic on the highway after running at high speed. On those occasions when I=
do drive in cooler temperatures the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 de=
grees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm up is a l=
ittle slower.=20
The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system se=
ems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur. I fou=
nd that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 degrees C=C2=
=A0 higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermost=
at. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the thermosta=
t is fully open.=20
M
=20
On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gmai=
l.com> wrote:
=20
I need=C2=A0to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews =
for "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to f=
ail in the open mode.=C2=A0 What is the collective experience with these?=
=20
TIA--Michael Oritt _______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
Healeys@autox.team.net
http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/michaels=
alter@gmail.com
=20
=20
_______________________________________________
Support Team.Net http://www.team.net/donate.html
Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
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http://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeys
=20
Unsubscribe/Manage: http://autox.team.net/mailman/options/healeys/roggrace=
@telus.net
=20
=20
_______________________________________________
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Suggested annual donation=C2=A0 $12.75
=20
Archive: http://www.team.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archi=
ve/healeys
=20
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=20
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194@gmail.com
=20
=20
=20
_______________________________________________Support Team.Net http://ww=
w.team.net/donate.htmlSuggested annual donation $12.75Archive: http://www.t=
eam.net/pipermail/healeys http://autox.team.net/archive/healeysHealeys@auto=
x.team.nethttp://autox.team.net/mailman/listinfo/healeysUnsubscribe/Manage:=
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------=_Part_8332123_9000283.1735609572430
Content-Transfer-Encoding: quoted-printable
<html xmlns=3D"http://www.w3.org/1999/xhtml"; xmlns:v=3D"urn:schemas-microso=
ft-com:vml" xmlns:o=3D"urn:schemas-microsoft-com:office:office"><head><!--[=
if gte mso 9]><xml><o:OfficeDocumentSettings><o:AllowPNG/><o:PixelsPerInch>=
96</o:PixelsPerInch></o:OfficeDocumentSettings></xml><![endif]--></head><bo=
dy>
If there were room for a full radiator shroud, that would help. Otherw=
ise, without concentrated airflow, yes, Healeys (and other vintage cars) ar=
e inclined to start heating up when warm and idling. The cure: an auxiliary=
electric pusher fan mounted in front of the radiator. Simply switch it on =
when you know you=E2=80=99ll be sitting in traffic or waiting to get into a=
show. I=E2=80=99ve also installed an alloy radiator, upgraded water pump, =
160-degree F thermostat, and Texas Cooler fan, but the auxiliary fan i=
s the trick. <br><br><br><div class=3D"yahoo-signature"><a style=3D"fo=
nt-size:12px" href=3D"https://apps.apple.com/us/app/aol-news-email-weather-=
video/id646100661">Sent from the all new AOL app for iOS</a><br></div><br><=
p class=3D"yahoo-quoted-begin" style=3D"font-size: 15px; color: rgb(132, 11=
5, 255); padding-top: 15px; margin-top: 0px;">On Monday, December 30, 2024,=
8:14 PM, Bob Spidell via Healeys <healeys@autox.team.net> wrote:</p>=
<blockquote class=3D"iosymail"><div id=3D"yiv7588010989"><div>
re: "EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg
thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow
on the actual engine block surface"<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
I don't underestimate it. Both my Healeys, BN2/100M and BJ8, behave
exactly the same: On cool days--70degF ambient or less--the engines
will not reach thermostat set point (180) when cruising. Both heat
up when sitting at idle. Both run at 180 or slightly above on warmer
days, but start to heat up quickly at idle and can go to 212. I can
only attribute the difference to airflow temp.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<div id=3D"yiv7588010989yqtfd47139" class=3D"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637=
"><div class=3D"yiv7588010989moz-cite-prefix">On 12/30/2024 10:12 AM, Al Fu=
ller
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
</blockquote></div></div><div id=3D"yiv7588010989yqtfd61441" class=3D=
"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"></div><div><div id=3D"yiv7588010989yqtfd14688"=
class=3D"yiv7588010989yqt4756003637"><div>
<div>Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how
the information is displayed?</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>________________<br clear=3D"none">
Sent from my phone <br clear=3D"none">
Best Regards,<br clear=3D"none">
Al Fuller</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote yiv7588010989gmail_quote_conta=
iner">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, =
2024, 8:30=E2=80=AFAM
Roger Grace <<a rel=3D"nofollow noopener noreferrer" shape=3D"=
rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:roggrace@telus.net"; target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailt=
o:roggrace@telus.net" class=3D"yiv7588010989moz-txt-link-freetext">roggrace=
@telus.net</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;p=
adding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when
the engine was working hard with increased losses is the
worst situation for our cars. Another technique to help
the "reserve" is to install an overflow recovery tank that
ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
relatively simple project and works well.</div>
<div>I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via
multiplexed switches :<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>WT - Smiths std gauge<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>OT- oil temp at filter</div>
<div>EC - engine compartment near carb intakes</div>
<div>TH - top hose water temp<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for
interest.<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump -
manually switched; 160F thermostat - agree with Michael
above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/16 holes in
thermostat; AL finned sump.<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Most interesting observations are:</div>
<div>Oil takes longer than we think to get close to
operating temp at least 30 min but depends on
ambient.Often long after the stat. opens<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading</div>
<div>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes.
rg thinks that we under estimate the cooling effect of
cruising airflow on the actual engine block surface.
Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor
fan would help - hence the louvres on the hood and sides
to get the hot air out for competition cars. My car runs
badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the
inlet air.</div>
<div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does
not reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases.
Important to anticipate. EWP is really good for
controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.<br clear=3D"n=
one">
</div>
<div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real
benefit and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet
deflectors are important<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block
cooling.</div>
<div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when
driving.<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>rg<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec =
28, 2024 at
9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <<a rel=3D"nofollow noopene=
r noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; tar=
get=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; class=3D"yiv75880109=
89moz-txt-link-freetext">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px s=
olid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote"=
>
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">Like
most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating
problems on occasion.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">The
worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming
stalled in traffic on the highway after running at
high speed.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">On
those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures
the temperature usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167
- 176 F) even without a thermostat although the warm
up is a little slower. <br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">The
advantage of running at this cooler temperature is
that the system seems to have a larger "reserve" when
the above traffic problems occur.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">I
found that the indicated temperature (which is
accurate), runs 5 degrees C higher even when using =
a
165 degree bellows or wax pellet type thermostat. I
suspect this is due to the slight restriction even
when the thermostat is fully open.</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"font-family:arial, sans-serif;font-size:small=
;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_default">M<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_attr">On Sat, =
Dec 28, 2024
at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <<a rel=3D"nofollow n=
oopener noreferrer" shape=3D"rect" ymailto=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.co=
m" target=3D"_blank" href=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; class=3D"yiv75=
88010989moz-txt-link-freetext">michael.oritt@gmail.com</a>>
wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1=
px solid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"yiv7588010989gmail_qu=
ote">
<div dir=3D"ltr">
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);" class=3D"yiv758801=
0989gmail_default">I need to replace my
thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
"Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many
others--which are designed to fail in the open
mode. What is the collective experience with
these?</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);" class=3D"yiv758801=
0989gmail_default"><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div style=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255);" class=3D"yiv758801=
0989gmail_default">TIA--Michael Oritt</div>
</div>
_______________________________________________<br clear=
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