Re: [Healeys] Failsafe thermostats

[Al Fuller <alfuller194@gmail.com>]

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Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures of how the information
is displayed?

________________
Sent from my phone
Best Regards,
Al Fuller

On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30=E2=80=AFAM Roger Grace <roggrace@telus.net> wrot=
e:

> Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was
> working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars.
> Another technique to help the "reserve" is to install an overflow recover=
y
> tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a
> relatively simple project and works well.
> I am a bit of a temp nut. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :
> WT - Smiths std gauge
> OT- oil temp at filter
> EC - engine compartment near carb intakes
> TH - top hose water temp
> Input ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.
> 5 Blade TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched;
> 160F thermostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold
> have 2 x 3/16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.
> Most interesting observations are:
> Oil takes longer than we think to get close to operating temp at least 30
> min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat. opens
> TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading
> EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that we
> under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engin=
e
> block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal
> obstructs and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help=
 -
> hence the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for
> competition cars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too
> rich for the inlet air.
> Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not reduce temp, but
> seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipate. EWP is reall=
y
> good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.
> Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit and an
> obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important
> Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.
> Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.
> rg
>
>
>
>
>
>
> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael Salter <michaelsalter@gma=
il.com>
> wrote:
>
>> Like most 100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on
>> occasion.
>> The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in
>> traffic on the highway after running at high speed.
>> On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the temperatur=
e
>> usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermosta=
t
>> although the warm up is a little slower.
>> The advantage of running at this cooler temperature is that the system
>> seems to have a larger "reserve" when the above traffic problems occur.
>> I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5
>> degrees C  higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet typ=
e
>> thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when th=
e
>> thermostat is fully open.
>>
>> M
>>
>> On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt <michael.oritt@gma=
il.com>
>> wrote:
>>
>>> I need to replace my thermostat and I see a lot of negative reviews for
>>> "Failsafe" units--sold my Moss and many others--which are designed to f=
ail
>>> in the open mode.  What is the collective experience with these?
>>>
>>> TIA--Michael Oritt
>>> _______________________________________________
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>> _______________________________________________
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>
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<div dir=3D"auto"><div>Roger - sounds interesting. Can you share pictures o=
f how the information is displayed?</div><div><br></div><div data-smartmail=
=3D"gmail_signature">________________<br>Sent from my phone <br>Best Regard=
s,<br>Al Fuller</div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote gmail_quote_contai=
ner"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Mon, Dec 30, 2024, 8:30=E2=80=
=AFAM Roger Grace &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:roggrace@telus.net";>roggrace@telus.=
net</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"marg=
in:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"=
><div>Yes, no doubt that idling after a high speed run when the engine was =
working hard with increased losses is the worst situation for our cars. Ano=
ther technique to help the &quot;reserve&quot; is to install an overflow re=
covery tank that ensures you start off with a full header tank. This is a r=
elatively simple project and works well.</div><div>I am a bit of a temp nut=
. On my BJ8, display via multiplexed switches :<br></div><div>WT - Smiths s=
td gauge<br></div><div>OT- oil temp at filter</div><div>EC - engine compart=
ment near carb intakes</div><div>TH - top hose water temp<br></div><div>Inp=
ut ambient to rad and cockpit temps just for interest.<br></div><div>5 Blad=
e TX fan; oil cooler; EWP electric water pump - manually switched; 160F the=
rmostat - agree with Michael above; rad recovery. As per Harold have 2 x 3/=
16 holes in thermostat; AL finned sump.<br></div><div>Most interesting obse=
rvations are:</div><div>Oil takes longer than we think to get close to oper=
ating temp at least 30 min but depends on ambient.Often long after the stat=
. opens<br></div><div>TH is generally 10F lower than the WT reading</div><d=
iv>EC and OT rise rapidly when no airflow as MS describes. rg thinks that w=
e under estimate the cooling effect of cruising airflow on the actual engin=
e block surface. Airflow is somewhat limited as a big chunk of metal obstru=
cts and no easy exit. Often wondered if an extractor fan would help - hence=
 the louvres on the hood and sides to get the hot air out for competition c=
ars. My car runs badly when EC is above 155F - becomes too rich for the inl=
et air.</div><div>Use the EWP when approaching traffic as above - does not =
reduce temp, but seems to prevent further increases. Important to anticipat=
e. EWP is really good for controlling heat soak after cutting the engine.<b=
r></div><div>Recently removed an electric rad pusher fan as no real benefit=
 and an obstruction to incoming air. Rad inlet deflectors are important<br>=
</div><div>Hi ambient of course is a big factor for rad and block cooling.<=
/div><div>Monitoring OT is very useful and easy to relate to when driving.<=
br></div><div>rg<br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div><br></div><div=
><br></div><div><br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"=
ltr" class=3D"gmail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 9:42=E2=80=AFAM Michael S=
alter &lt;<a href=3D"mailto:michaelsalter@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=
=3D"noreferrer">michaelsalter@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote=
 class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px so=
lid rgb(204,204,204);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail=
_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">Like most =
100 drivers I have struggled with overheating problems on occasion.</div><d=
iv class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:=
small">The worst situation is when stopping for gas or becoming stalled in =
traffic on the highway after running at high speed.</div><div class=3D"gmai=
l_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"></div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:s=
mall">On those occasions when I do drive in cooler temperatures the tempera=
ture usually reaches 75 - 80 degrees C (167 - 176 F) even without a thermos=
tat although the warm up is a little slower. <br></div><div class=3D"gmail_=
default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">The advanta=
ge of running at this cooler temperature is that the system seems to have a=
 larger &quot;reserve&quot; when the above traffic problems occur.</div><di=
v class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:s=
mall">I found that the indicated temperature (which is accurate), runs 5 de=
grees C=C2=A0 higher even when using a 165 degree bellows or wax pellet typ=
e thermostat. I suspect this is due to the slight restriction even when the=
 thermostat is fully open.</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-=
family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_defa=
ult" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small"></div><div clas=
s=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-family:arial,sans-serif;font-size:small">=
M<br></div></div><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote"><div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"g=
mail_attr">On Sat, Dec 28, 2024 at 8:32=E2=80=AFAM Michael Oritt &lt;<a hre=
f=3D"mailto:michael.oritt@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank" rel=3D"noreferrer">m=
ichael.oritt@gmail.com</a>&gt; wrote:<br></div><blockquote class=3D"gmail_q=
uote" style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204,204,2=
04);padding-left:1ex"><div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=
=3D"color:rgb(51,51,255)">I need=C2=A0to replace my thermostat and I see a =
lot of negative reviews for &quot;Failsafe&quot; units--sold my Moss and ma=
ny others--which are designed to fail in the open mode.=C2=A0 What is the c=
ollective experience with these?</div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D=
"color:rgb(51,51,255)"><br></div><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"colo=
r:rgb(51,51,255)">TIA--Michael Oritt</div></div>
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