A very frustrated Bill wrote: <snip>
Rich,
Try answering paragraph 2 of Randy's question.
Bill
64 BJ8
There are a number of different types of door seals on the market, and none
of them are quite exactly like the original stuff. However, I've had the
best results using MacGregor's Bristleflex, which is very "giving" and will
also stay put when installed.
Rich Chrysler
Okay, let's look at this again. Randy says that the doors were closing
beautifully before the door seals went on, yet he states that the door seals
don't seem to be binding anywhere. Were the door pillar to front fender flange
seals also installed at the same time, possibly placing pressure against the
upper vent frame, thereby forcing the doors out and/or down? I've experienced
exactly this problem. A good test here is if you can place a sheet of paper
between the door seal and the inner door panel with the door closed and still
slip the paper out without tearing it? Check for the same at the window vent
frame to pillar seal, and front fender inner flange lip seal to door. It
doesn't take much to cause even a soft rubber seal to place undue pressure
against these surfaces, and force the fit out of place.
The point I was trying to make in my first reply (copied above) is that
there are a lot of different seals on the market, and an oversize or non
yielding seal can give major grief when trying to get all this to fit
decently.
Another thought here is that all these seals (and door trim panels) will
settle and crush a certain amount within the first year of use, and eventually
will fit much easier with much less of a slam needed to close the doors. It's
often a case of getting the best fit possible and leaving the doors shut as
much as possible for the first year or so. Our northern 5 month winter
hibernation is very beneficial to this cause.
Should have been a law against windup windows on a Healey anyway! <grin>
Rich Chrysler
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