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=20
Also of course points are very crude & low-tech nowadays, but that doesn't =
mean that they don't work properly when everything is set up correctly.The =
Lucas 45D based points-type distributor is a good basis to work with, it ha=
s an asymmetrical cam, good separation between cap contacts, & plenty of dw=
ell for a 4-cylinder.Beyond that, I've always had good luck with optical un=
its, ie the old Allison & Electromotive but I don't know what's currently o=
n the market.
Glen Efinger
On Thursday, August 15, 2024 at 08:33:09 AM EDT, Robert Lang via Fot <f=
ot@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
Hi,
Sorry to hear of your troubles. Sounds frustrating.
A couple of things:
I switched to epoxy-filled coils quite a while ago - like 20 years. I did t=
his because it seems the epoxy stands up better in heat and vibration. Also=
, one in a while I will forget to turn of my ignition and master switch whe=
n doing full tune-ups and I have had oil-filled coils over heat and burst. =
Never had an epoxy coil fail from heat. So I stick with recommending epoxy =
filled coils.
Regarding the trigger - the more you get into electronic ignition, the more=
sensitive your system will be to the quality of your DC power source. Ther=
e are variables in these systems, so you need to match your choice with the=
rest of your electrical system. For very sensitive systems, running a tota=
l loss electrical system gets you clean power, but you add maintenance for =
you battery and charging. Conversely, points systems require some fiddling =
but you can run with voltage spikes and dips with almost no effect on the s=
ystem. I any case, it's never a bad idea to have a primary and a secondary =
system that you can swap in / out easily at the track. To wit: I run one sy=
stem (Mallory dual point converted to Pertronix Ignitor II with an MSD Blas=
ter coil) and I have a spare Mallory setup that will have either a differen=
t Pertronix setup or a dual points setup, depending on my whim - in the spa=
res for the weekend. And this is important: TESTED AND VERIFIED prior to ge=
tting to the track. Given my semi-laid-back track MO, going beyond those tw=
o option means loading the car on the trailer and just socializing. If you =
want to get away from fiddly bits like points and depending on the rules wh=
ere you run, you can't beat a crank-triggered ignition. But: electronics.
Regarding the debris in the fuel bowls - you should track that down. Crap i=
n the fuel just doesn't materialize from thin air. Black bits says fuel lin=
e. I'd do a prophylactic fuel line change if I saw black bits in the carb b=
owls.
Back to distributors - I've been hoarding stock Lucas distributors and bash=
ing them together to complete units and then getting one of the major playe=
rs (Jeff at Advanced Distributor or Rob at British Vacuum) to do a proper r=
ebuild. That provides and excellent baseline from which to "play" with long=
er dwell etc to get a nice fat spark. The one drawback to running a single =
point system is that you are limited to how much dwell you can get (reliabl=
y). The more dwell you run, the more fiddling you have to do to stay on top=
of it. This is where dual point setups and electronic systems shine. Less =
maintenance... in theory.
Last - the most reliable electronic setup I ever had was the Crane (now FAS=
T) Fireball setups (700 and 3000). One XR700 in a TR6 with a worn distribut=
or fixed all the ignition problems I had been having. I haven't used the ne=
w FAST setup, but unless they made major engineering changes to it, it shou=
ld be rock solid. The one thing I did not like was that you're pretty much =
stuck with the dwell that you get - but trust me, it was more than adequate=
to light a TR6 with a flowed head and Webers while I was tuning the jets (=
and float height).
Regards,Bob Lang339-927-4489
On Wednesday, August 14, 2024 at 04:31:22 PM EDT, Andrew Devenish via F=
ot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote: =20
=20
I thought an update might be in order.Thank you for all the suggestions an=
d ideas. Spoiler - still not fixed.I have removed and cleaned out the bowl/=
jet lines, the front had black debris, but I don=E2=80=99t think it was eno=
ugh to block the line, and it did not fix the problem.Fuel pump. I have che=
cked pressure and delivery from the pump, all is well. I have now changed t=
o a smaller capacity positive displacement design as there was concern over=
interaction of the internal and external pressure regulators. Still not fi=
xed.Could not find any vacuum leak. I=E2=80=99ve had the manifolds off and =
back on since this issue has been around with no change.=C2=A0
A couple of replies were pretty confident that I have an ignition vs fuel i=
ssue. As I can=E2=80=99t find any fuel issue, I now suspect they may be rig=
ht. I run Petronix ignitor 1149 with their coil 40611. This is the correct =
3ohm set up per Pertronix.=C2=A0I purchased a new coil from Amazon - but th=
e replacement coil was defective and had a misfire from the start which I c=
ould ABA with the old coil. Talking with Pertronix the were concerned my ne=
w part was not theirs, and maybe a cheap copy - I returned to Amazon, now w=
aiting on a coil from Pertronix direct.As I=E2=80=99m playing with ignition=
now, what are you guys using for signal and for coil with good success ?=
=C2=A0Thank you for the advice and support - it will be sorted.
Thank you,=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Andrew Devenish
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 9, 2024, at 5:10=E2=80=AFPM, Andrew Devenish <gt6racer@msn.com> wrot=
e:
=EF=BB=BF Hi Mike,=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 The first question is =
a good one. The car was built for autocross by a guy in Indiana who knew hi=
s stuff. However, I bought it from a guy who had bought it to run PIB, but =
knew nothing about race engines. He had run it lean and holed #4. He told m=
e he had not changed anything, but that is turning out not to be the case. =
(I suspect it holed the piston because I found he had fitted gros jets with=
the float level way too low).=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 I rebuilt i=
t to same mechanical spec. It ran great but a little lean on the AAU needle=
s for road course, so I=E2=80=99m now on AAA. It still runs great, unless i=
t doesn=E2=80=99t =F0=9F=98=81.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 The car has had =
this issue since I built it. At first I thought the obvious - float heights=
, needle/seat, regulator pressure etc etc but while it always runs great I =
have this issues after a few =E2=80=9Claps=E2=80=9D.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 2)=
=C2=A0 The car had a Summit racing 3136 pump which has around 90GPH and an=
internal blow off at 7PSI, my regulator is at 4 PSI. Today I had taken the=
pump apart and checked it but all looked OK. I fitted a cheap solenoid pum=
p in its place. Issue still there.I had checked both the Summit and now the=
solenoid pump for flow, there is plenty.=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 As I no=
ted the float bowls are full when it quits running.=C2=A0 =C2=A0 3) Great p=
oint - could be what I have. I know the fuel level in the jets is fine when=
not running, but a poor flow from bowl to jet would change that when runni=
ng. My O2 is in the collector, so I can=E2=80=99t be sure if it=E2=80=99s b=
oth carbs or just one. All 4 plugs look very similar, but that is possible =
as this =E2=80=9Clean=E2=80=9D condition is only for a few cycles before it=
stops - not enough to color the plug. Will check when I can ( unfortunatel=
y a busy weekend coming up as I race sailboats too ). I=E2=80=99ve been thi=
nking it is heat related, but it could just as easily be time. When I tried=
to run autocross it started to play up after 10 or so seconds of full thro=
ttle (which I can=E2=80=99t do in my yard). On autocross it would pull like=
crazy, then go very flat, and then come back on, repeat. Your idea would d=
o just that !=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 4) always worth a check, but it would have=
to be something that shows up only when hot.=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 5) yes, co=
mpression good. Between 220 and 225 for all, measured on crank with throttl=
es open.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Thanks also to the other res=
ponses that I received, I didn=E2=80=99t cc all on my replies in order to r=
educe the clutter=E2=80=A6
Thank you,=C2=A0=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Andrew Devenish
Sent from my iPad
On Aug 9, 2024, at 3:51=E2=80=AFPM, Mike Harmuth <ofracer@gmail.com> wrote:
=EF=BB=BFHi Andrew, a couple of things to check.1st, is this a new problem?=
if so, what did you touch last?
2d Verify fuel flow, not just pressure=C2=A0i.e Gallons per hour? Disconnec=
t the fuel line at the carbs, and stick it into a 1 quart or one gallon cle=
an/clear bottle/jug. Turn the fuel pump on and time how long it takes to fi=
ll (1 Qt/ 1Gal whatever size container you're using).=C2=A0 If you're getti=
ng more than 20 gallons per hour, the flow is OK. Set the bottle aside and =
let it settle out, look for particles, rubber, fuel cell foam, dirt. If so,=
see where that's coming from. For example, old fuel cell foam will break d=
own and clog the intake. When the pump turns off, the fuel in the lines dro=
ps back flushing the intake clear until next time. Fuel filter clean? Fuel =
pressure reg OK? Not just holding pressure (I run 3.5 on my HS4s) but actua=
lly sending fuel down the line? The gallons per hour test will indicate if =
you need to look into any of these areas, if you're gelling enough fuel, mo=
re down the list for now.link to flow and fuel requirements chart=C2=A0http=
s://historicracinggroup.com/resources/Reference_Material/Canton/Fuel%20Cons=
umption%20and%20Flow%20Quick%20Ref%20by%20CM%20Filters.pdf
3. A problem I had with an identical=C2=A0set up, was rubber hose breaking =
down and settling into the little box shaped=C2=A0well in the carb bowl whe=
re the line to the jet connects. It's happened=C2=A0to me twice now, last t=
ime was in June with fairly new hose feeding the carbs. It restricted the f=
low to the jet, even though the bowl was full. At high load, not enough fue=
l could get past the blockage.<IMG_20240630_112925914.jpg>
4. Vacuum leak- Is there a crack or loose bolt on the intake manifold? With=
the engine running, spray carb cleaner around the manifold to block, carbs=
to manifold. A change in engine RPM means something was drawn in through a=
gap.
5. Compression check- Are all the cylinders within 5-10% of each other?
Happy hunting
mike h
On Fri, Aug 9, 2024 at 3:03=E2=80=AFPM Andrew Devenish via Fot <fot@autox.t=
eam.net> wrote:
Guys,=20
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 My car ( 1300, 12.5:1 comp on Sunoco 110=
race gas, dual HS4 ) is still giving me grief. I=E2=80=99ve chased all the=
things I can think of, but still same problem. It starts and runs great, b=
ut after a few laps of the yard ( 5-6, only 1000ft=C2=A0 or so per up/down =
lap, so quick accels then braking to turn ) it goes very lean ( I have O2 s=
ensor ) and stops. I=E2=80=99m running it without the hood for these test r=
uns. It always stops at the entry to a turn.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I=E2=80=99ve been working on it a lot, so=
know it has fuel pressure, and the float bowls are full of fuel. All plugs=
look very similar. The needles (AAA) are the spring type, and the slides m=
ove freely. I use ATF as fluid, but have tried 50 weight too.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 After a minute or so it will fire back up, but =
only run enough to get back to the shop before going lean again. If I pull =
out the choke it will run, but is unstable.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0I have wrapped headers and a heat shield around =
the carbs but they do still get hot.
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0Any ideas ?=C2=A0 Thinking to try some less vola=
tile fuel as it seems heat related and the Sunoco evaporates so fast !
Thank you,=20
=C2=A0 =C2=A0 =C2=A0 Andrew Devenish
Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
@yahoo.com
_______________________________________________
fot@autox.team.net
http://www.fot-racing.com
Archive: http://autox.team.net/archive http://www.team.net/pipermail/fot
m
=20
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<html><head></head><body><div class=3D"ydp93ce96eayahoo-style-wrap" style=
=3D"font-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;"><div></div>
<div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br><div><span><div dir=3D"l=
tr" data-setdir=3D"false">Also of course points are very crude & low-te=
ch nowadays, but that doesn't mean that they don't work properly when every=
thing is set up correctly.</div></span>The
Lucas 45D based points-type distributor is a good basis to work with,=20
it has an asymmetrical cam, good separation between cap contacts, &=20
plenty of dwell for a 4-cylinder.</div></div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=
=3D"false">Beyond that, I've always had good luck with optical units, ie th=
e old Allison & Electromotive but I don't know what's currently on the =
market.</div><div dir=3D"ltr" data-setdir=3D"false"><br></div><div dir=3D"l=
tr" data-setdir=3D"false">Glen Efinger<br></div><div><br></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yahoo_quoted_4266271337" class=3D"ydpa3=
7f61e2yahoo_quoted"><div class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yahoo-style-wrap" style=3D"fon=
t-family:Arial, Helvetica, sans-serif;font-size:16px;">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div class=3D"ydpa37f61e2quoted-text-header">
On Thursday, August 15, 2024 at 08:33:09 AM EDT, Ro=
bert Lang via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
</div><div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica=
, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;border-left: 1px solid #cc=
c;padding-left: 8px;margin: 0px 0px 0px 8px" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2inline_rep=
ly_quote_container" data-split-quote-node=3D"true">
<div><br></div><div><br></div>
<div><div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766"><div><div style=
=3D"font-family:Helvetica Neue, Helvetica, Arial, sans-serif;font-size:13px=
;" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpee56d1cayahoo-style-wrap"><div></div=
>
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi,</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div=
><div dir=3D"ltr">Sorry to hear of your troubles. Sounds frustrating.</div>=
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">A couple of thin=
gs:</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">I switc=
hed to epoxy-filled coils quite a while ago - like 20 years. I did this bec=
ause it seems the epoxy stands up better in heat and vibration. Also, one i=
n a while I will forget to turn of my ignition and master switch when doing=
full tune-ups and I have had oil-filled coils over heat and burst. Never h=
ad an epoxy coil fail from heat. So I stick with recommending epoxy filled =
coils.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Rega=
rding the trigger - the more you get into electronic ignition, the more sen=
sitive your system will be to the quality of your DC power source. There ar=
e variables in these systems, so you need to match your choice with the res=
t of your electrical system. For very sensitive systems, running a total lo=
ss electrical system gets you clean power, but you add maintenance for you =
battery and charging. Conversely, points systems require some fiddling but =
you can run with voltage spikes and dips with almost no effect on the syste=
m. I any case, it's never a bad idea to have a primary and a secondary syst=
em that you can swap in / out easily at the track. To wit: I run one system=
(Mallory dual point converted to Pertronix Ignitor II with an MSD Blaster =
coil) and I have a spare Mallory setup that will have either a different Pe=
rtronix setup or a dual points setup, depending on my whim - in the spares =
for the weekend. And this is important: TESTED AND VERIFIED prior to gettin=
g to the track. Given my semi-laid-back track MO, going beyond those two op=
tion means loading the car on the trailer and just socializing. If you want=
to get away from fiddly bits like points and depending on the rules where =
you run, you can't beat a crank-triggered ignition. But: electronics.<br cl=
ear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"lt=
r">Regarding the debris in the fuel bowls - you should track that down. Cra=
p in the fuel just doesn't materialize from thin air. Black bits says fuel =
line. I'd do a prophylactic fuel line change if I saw black bits in the car=
b bowls.</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Ba=
ck to distributors - I've been hoarding stock Lucas distributors and bashin=
g them together to complete units and then getting one of the major players=
(Jeff at Advanced Distributor or Rob at British Vacuum) to do a proper reb=
uild. That provides and excellent baseline from which to "play" with longer=
dwell etc to get a nice fat spark. The one drawback to running a single po=
int system is that you are limited to how much dwell you can get (reliably)=
. The more dwell you run, the more fiddling you have to do to stay on top o=
f it. This is where dual point setups and electronic systems shine. Less ma=
intenance... in theory.<br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=
=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Last - the most reliable electronic setup =
I ever had was the Crane (now FAST) Fireball setups (700 and 3000). One XR7=
00 in a TR6 with a worn distributor fixed all the ignition problems I had b=
een having. I haven't used the new FAST setup, but unless they made major e=
ngineering changes to it, it should be rock solid. The one thing I did not =
like was that you're pretty much stuck with the dwell that you get - but tr=
ust me, it was more than adequate to light a TR6 with a flowed head and Web=
ers while I was tuning the jets (and float height).</div><div dir=3D"ltr"><=
br clear=3D"none"></div><div dir=3D"ltr">Regards,</div><div dir=3D"ltr">Bob=
Lang</div><div dir=3D"ltr">339-927-4489<br clear=3D"none"></div><div><br c=
lear=3D"none"></div>
=20
</div><div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyahoo_quoted_41=
41801943" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyahoo_quoted">
<div style=3D"font-family:'Helvetica Neue', Helvetica, Arial, s=
ans-serif;font-size:13px;color:#26282a;">
=20
<div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766yqt82093" class=3D"ydpa3=
7f61e2yiv4260776766yqt4543571703"><div>
On Wednesday, August 14, 2024 at 04:31:22 PM EDT, A=
ndrew Devenish via Fot <fot@autox.team.net> wrote:
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
<div><br clear=3D"none"></div>
=20
=20
<div><div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv27051=
29384"><div>
I thought an update might be in order.
<div>Thank you for all the suggestions and ideas. Spoiler - still not fixed=
.</div>
<div>I have removed and cleaned out the bowl/jet lines, the front had black=
debris, but I don=E2=80=99t think it was enough to block the line, and it =
did not fix the problem.</div>
<div>Fuel pump. I have checked pressure and delivery from the pump, all is =
well. I have now changed to a smaller capacity positive displacement design=
as there was concern over interaction of the internal and external pressur=
e regulators. Still not fixed.</div>
<div>Could not find any vacuum leak. I=E2=80=99ve had the manifolds off and=
back on since this issue has been around with no change. </div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>A couple of replies were pretty confident that I have an ignition vs f=
uel issue. As I can=E2=80=99t find any fuel issue, I now suspect they may b=
e right. I run Petronix ignitor 1149 with their coil 40611. This is the cor=
rect 3ohm set up per Pertronix.</div>
<div> I purchased a new coil from Amazon - but the replacement coil wa=
s defective and had a misfire from the start which I could ABA with the old=
coil. Talking with Pertronix the were concerned my new part was not theirs=
, and maybe a cheap copy - I returned
to Amazon, now waiting on a coil from Pertronix direct.</div>
<div>As I=E2=80=99m playing with ignition now, what are you guys using for =
signal and for coil with good success ? </div>
<div>Thank you for the advice and support - it will be sorted.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none" id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129=
384lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Thank you,
<div> Andrew Devenish</div>
<div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Sent from my iPad</div>
</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv270512938=
4yqtfd26769" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129384yqt77=
96349807"><br clear=3D"none">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On Aug 9, 2024, at 5:10=E2=80=AFPM, Andrew Deveni=
sh <gt6racer@msn.com> wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div></div><div id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129384yqtf=
d34655" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129384yqt7796349=
807">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF Hi Mike,
<div> The first question is a good one. T=
he car was built for autocross by a guy in Indiana who knew his stuff. Howe=
ver, I bought it from a guy who had bought it to run PIB, but knew nothing =
about race engines. He had run it lean and holed #4. He told
me he had not changed anything, but that is turning out not to be the case=
. (I suspect it holed the piston because I found he had fitted gros jets wi=
th the float level way too low). </div>
<div> I rebuilt it to same mechanical spec. It r=
an great but a little lean on the AAU needles for road course, so I=E2=80=
=99m now on AAA. It still runs great, unless it doesn=E2=80=99t =F0=9F=98=
=81.</div>
<div> The car has had this issue since I built i=
t. At first I thought the obvious - float heights, needle/seat, regulator p=
ressure etc etc but while it always runs great I have this issues after a f=
ew =E2=80=9Claps=E2=80=9D.</div>
<div> 2) The car had a Summit racing 3136 pump w=
hich has around 90GPH and an internal blow off at 7PSI, my regulator is at =
4 PSI. Today I had taken the pump apart and checked it but all looked OK. I=
fitted a cheap solenoid pump in its place. Issue still
there.</div>
<div>I had checked both the Summit and now the solenoid pump for flow, ther=
e is plenty. </div>
<div> As I noted the float bowls are full when it quits=
running.</div>
<div> 3) Great point - could be what I have. I know the fuel l=
evel in the jets is fine when not running, but a poor flow from bowl to jet=
would change that when running. My O2 is in the collector, so I can=E2=80=
=99t be sure if it=E2=80=99s both carbs or just one. All 4
plugs look very similar, but that is possible as this =E2=80=9Clean=E2=80=
=9D condition is only for a few cycles before it stops - not enough to colo=
r the plug. Will check when I can ( unfortunately a busy weekend coming up =
as I race sailboats too ). I=E2=80=99ve been thinking it
is heat related, but it could just as easily be time. When I tried to run =
autocross it started to play up after 10 or so seconds of full throttle (wh=
ich I can=E2=80=99t do in my yard). On autocross it would pull like crazy, =
then go very flat, and then come back on,
repeat. Your idea would do just that ! </div>
<div> 4) always worth a check, but it would have to be somethi=
ng that shows up only when hot. </div>
<div> 5) yes, compression good. Between 220 and 225 for all, m=
easured on crank with throttles open.</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div> </div>
<div> Thanks also to the other responses that I r=
eceived, I didn=E2=80=99t cc all on my replies in order to reduce the clutt=
er=E2=80=A6</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none" id=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129=
384lineBreakAtBeginningOfSignature">
<div dir=3D"ltr">Thank you,
<div> Andrew Devenish</div>
<div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Sent from my iPad</div>
</div>
</div>
<div dir=3D"ltr"><br clear=3D"none">
<blockquote type=3D"cite">On Aug 9, 2024, at 3:51=E2=80=AFPM, Mike Harmuth =
<ofracer@gmail.com> wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
</blockquote>
</div>
<blockquote type=3D"cite">
<div dir=3D"ltr">=EF=BB=BF
<div dir=3D"ltr">Hi Andrew, a couple of things to check.
<div>1st, is this a new problem? if so, what did you touch last?</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>2d Verify fuel flow, not just pressure i.e Gallons per hour? Disc=
onnect the fuel line at the carbs, and stick it into a 1 quart or one gallo=
n clean/clear bottle/jug. Turn the fuel pump on and time how long it takes =
to fill (1 Qt/ 1Gal whatever size container
you're using). If you're getting more than 20 gallons per hour, the =
flow is OK. Set the bottle aside and let it settle out, look for particles,=
rubber, fuel cell foam, dirt. If so, see where that's coming from. For exa=
mple, old fuel cell foam will break down
and clog the intake. When the pump turns off, the fuel in the lines drops =
back flushing the intake clear until next time. Fuel filter clean? Fuel pre=
ssure reg OK? Not just holding pressure (I run 3.5 on my HS4s) but actually=
sending fuel down the line? The
gallons per hour test will indicate if you need to look into any of these =
areas, if you're gelling enough fuel, more down the list for now.</div>
<div>link to flow and fuel requirements chart <a shape=3D"rect" href=
=3D"https://historicracinggroup.com/resources/Reference_Material/Canton/Fue=
l%20Consumption%20and%20Flow%20Quick%20Ref%20by%20CM%20Filters.pdf" rel=3D"=
nofollow" target=3D"_blank">https://historicracinggroup.com/resources/Refer=
ence_Material/Canton/Fuel%20Consumption%20and%20Flow%20Quick%20Ref%20by%20C=
M%20Filters.pdf</a></div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>3. A problem I had with an identical set up, was rubber hose brea=
king down and settling into the little box shaped well in the carb bow=
l where the line to the jet connects. It's happened to me twice now, l=
ast time was in June with fairly new hose feeding
the carbs. It restricted the flow to the jet, even though the bowl was ful=
l. At high load, not enough fuel could get past the blockage.</div>
<div>
<div><IMG_20240630_112925914.jpg></div>
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>4. Vacuum leak- Is there a crack or loose bolt on the intake manifold?=
With the engine running, spray carb cleaner around the manifold to block, =
carbs to manifold. A change in engine RPM means something was drawn in thro=
ugh a gap.<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>5. Compression check- Are all the cylinders within 5-10% of each other=
?</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>Happy hunting</div>
<div><br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<div>mike h</div>
</div>
<br clear=3D"none">
<div class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129384gmail_quote">
<div dir=3D"ltr" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyiv2705129384g=
mail_attr">On Fri, Aug 9, 2024 at 3:03=E2=80=AFPM Andrew Devenish via Fot &=
lt;<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"nofollow" ta=
rget=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a>> wrote:<br clear=3D"none">
</div>
<blockquote style=3D"margin:0px 0px 0px 0.8ex;border-left:1px solid rgb(204=
,204,204);padding-left:1ex;" class=3D"ydpa37f61e2yiv4260776766ydpc94215afyi=
v2705129384gmail_quote">
Guys, <br clear=3D"none">
My car ( 1300, 12.5:1 comp on Sunoco 110=
race gas, dual HS4 ) is still giving me grief. I=E2=80=99ve chased all the=
things I can think of, but still same problem. It starts and runs great, b=
ut after a few laps of the yard ( 5-6, only 1000ft or so per up/down
lap, so quick accels then braking to turn ) it goes very lean ( I have O2 =
sensor ) and stops. I=E2=80=99m running it without the hood for these test =
runs. It always stops at the entry to a turn.
<br clear=3D"none">
I=E2=80=99ve been working on it a lot, so=
know it has fuel pressure, and the float bowls are full of fuel. All plugs=
look very similar. The needles (AAA) are the spring type, and the slides m=
ove freely. I use ATF as fluid, but have tried 50 weight too.<br clear=3D"n=
one">
After a minute or so it will fire back up, but =
only run enough to get back to the shop before going lean again. If I pull =
out the choke it will run, but is unstable.
<br clear=3D"none">
I have wrapped headers and a heat shield around =
the carbs but they do still get hot.<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Any ideas ? Thinking to try some less vola=
tile fuel as it seems heat related and the Sunoco evaporates so fast !<br c=
lear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Thank you, <br clear=3D"none">
Andrew Devenish<br clear=3D"none">
<br clear=3D"none">
Sent from my iPad_______________________________________________<br clear=
=3D"none">
<a shape=3D"rect" href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; rel=3D"nofollow" targe=
t=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net</a><br clear=3D"none">
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</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
</div>
</div>
</blockquote>
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