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I would still go with the TR6 lower trunnion and control arms because the
diameter of the threaded end on the TR6 vertical link is larger and more
robust for competition use. Using the TR6 trunnion also lowers the front
end an inch which makes the car sit more manly.
On Sun, May 22, 2016 at 11:05 AM, Bill <ponobill@gmail.com> wrote:
> Actually the late TR4 trunnions with caster seem to be more easily
> available and they have the pressed in shaft. At least that used to be th=
e
> case as I recall. I have those trunnions in Peyote.
>
> On May 22, 2016, at 3:36 AM, John Styduhar <johnstydo@gmail.com> wrote:
>
> Jack, if you are going to do this conversion you will also need to acquir=
e
> the later model lower control arms (or modify your lower control arms if
> possible) because the trunnion assembly for a TR6 uses a thru bolt and no=
t
> the shaft type on the earlier TRs. You will also need to retrofit the
> inner lower control arm bushings from the later model onto the TR3 mounti=
ng
> points. Everything will bolt together.
>
> On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 1:34 AM, Jack Brooks <JIBrooks@live.com> wrote:
>
>> I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3 thi=
s
>> summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion to TR=
6
>> parts. I will use =E2=80=9Cthe=E2=80=9D Jag ball joint and shim it as r=
equired. Due to
>> the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or moving the inner pivot
>> point inward, I am considering welding an extension to the upper A-Arm b=
all
>> joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the ball joint further inward
>> and produce a similar result to shortening the A-arm. I have not remove=
d
>> my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is room to move the ball joint
>> inward at least an inch in this way. I know I can=E2=80=99t go as far a=
s those of
>> you who have shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a
>> decent compromise. I am concerned though, as this seems too easy. None=
of
>> you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms which,
>> from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner pivot poin=
t
>> and retaining substantial structure.
>>
>>
>>
>> So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint
>> further inboard not a good solution? What am I missing?
>>
>> Thanks in advance,
>>
>>
>>
>> Jack
>>
>> _______________________________________________
>> fot@autox.team.net
>>
>> http://www.fot-racing.com
>>
>> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>>
>>
>>
>>
> _______________________________________________
> fot@autox.team.net
>
> http://www.fot-racing.com
>
> Donate: http://www.team.net/donate.html
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>
>
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>
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<div dir=3D"ltr"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">I w=
ould still go with the TR6 lower trunnion and control arms because the diam=
eter of the threaded end on the TR6 vertical link is larger and more robust=
for competition use.=C2=A0 Using the TR6 trunnion also lowers the front en=
d an inch which makes the car sit more manly. =C2=A0=C2=A0</div></div><div =
class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sun, May 22, 2016 a=
t 11:05 AM, Bill <span dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:ponobill@gmail.com=
" target=3D"_blank">ponobill@gmail.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote=
class=3D"gmail_quote" style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc soli=
d;padding-left:1ex"><div style=3D"word-wrap:break-word">Actually the late T=
R4 trunnions with caster seem to be more easily available and they have the=
pressed in shaft. At least that used to be the case as I recall. I have th=
ose trunnions in Peyote.=C2=A0<div><br><div><blockquote type=3D"cite"><div>=
<div class=3D"h5"><div>On May 22, 2016, at 3:36 AM, John Styduhar <<a hr=
ef=3D"mailto:johnstydo@gmail.com"; target=3D"_blank">johnstydo@gmail.com</a>=
> wrote:</div><br></div></div><div><div><div class=3D"h5"><div dir=3D"lt=
r"><div class=3D"gmail_default" style=3D"font-size:small">Jack, if you are =
going to do this conversion you will also need to acquire the later model l=
ower control arms (or modify your lower control arms if possible) because t=
he trunnion assembly for a TR6 uses a thru bolt and not the shaft type on t=
he earlier TRs.=C2=A0 You will also need to retrofit the inner lower contro=
l arm bushings from the later model onto the TR3 mounting points. Everythin=
g will bolt together.=C2=A0<br></div></div><div class=3D"gmail_extra"><br><=
div class=3D"gmail_quote">On Sat, May 21, 2016 at 1:34 AM, Jack Brooks <spa=
n dir=3D"ltr"><<a href=3D"mailto:JIBrooks@live.com"; target=3D"_blank">JI=
Brooks@live.com</a>></span> wrote:<br><blockquote class=3D"gmail_quote" =
style=3D"margin:0 0 0 .8ex;border-left:1px #ccc solid;padding-left:1ex"><di=
v lang=3D"EN-US" link=3D"#0563C1" vlink=3D"#954F72"><div><p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman"=
;,serif">I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) T=
R3 this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and trunnion =
to TR6 parts.=C2=A0 I will use =E2=80=9Cthe=E2=80=9D Jag ball joint and shi=
m it as required.=C2=A0 Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm=
or moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an extens=
ion to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside to mount the =
ball joint further inward and produce a similar result to shortening the A-=
arm.=C2=A0 I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but it appears there is ro=
om to move the ball joint inward at least an inch in this way.=C2=A0 I know=
I can=E2=80=99t go as far as those of you who have shortened the upper arm=
s, but it seems like it could be a decent compromise.=C2=A0 I am concerned =
though, as this seems too easy.=C2=A0 None of you guys have done it. Instea=
d you have shortening the upper arms which, from what I have read, is chall=
enging, as is moving the inner pivot point and retaining substantial struct=
ure.</span><u></u><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-siz=
e:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif">=C2=A0</span><u></u=
><u></u></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-fam=
ily:"Times New Roman",serif">So, the question is. . . . . . . Why=
is simply moving the ball joint further inboard not a good solution?=C2=A0=
What am I missing?<br><br></span><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-fami=
ly:"Times New Roman",serif"><u></u><u></u></span></p><p class=3D"=
MsoNormal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roma=
n",serif">Thanks in advance,<span><font color=3D"#888888"><u></u><u></=
u></font></span></span></p><span><font color=3D"#888888"><p class=3D"MsoNor=
mal"><span style=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman"=
;,serif"><u></u>=C2=A0<u></u></span></p><p class=3D"MsoNormal"><span style=
=3D"font-size:12.0pt;font-family:"Times New Roman",serif">Jack<u>=
</u><u></u></span></p></font></span></div></div><br>_______________________=
________________________<br>
<a href=3D"mailto:fot@autox.team.net"; target=3D"_blank">fot@autox.team.net<=
/a><br>
<br>
<a href=3D"http://www.fot-racing.com/"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=3D"_blank"=
>http://www.fot-racing.com</a><br>
<br>
et=3D"_blank">http://www.team.net/donate.html</a><br>
Archive: <a href=3D"http://www.team.net/archive"; rel=3D"noreferrer" target=
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et/mailman/options/fot/johnstydo@gmail.com</a><br>
<br>
<br>
<br></blockquote></div><br></div>
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ckquote></div><br></div></div></blockquote></div><br></div>
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_______________________________________________
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Archive: http://www.team.net/archive
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