That will work to adjust the camber - after a bit of adjustment the
a-arm will hit the wheel and you'll need to shorten the outer end though.
Regards, Tony
At 12:34 AM 5/21/2016, Jack Brooks wrote:
>Content-Type: multipart/alternative;
> boundary="----=_NextPart_000_004A_01D1B2E7.BE06EF10"
>Content-Language: en-us
>
>I am hoping to upgrade the front suspension on my (street/AutoX) TR3
>this summer by changing out the upper A-arm, vertical link and
>trunnion to TR6 parts. I will use "the" Jag ball joint and shim it
>as required. Due to the complexity of shortening the upper A-arm or
>moving the inner pivot point inward, I am considering welding an
>extension to the upper A-Arm ball joint mounting tabs on the inside
>to mount the ball joint further inward and produce a similar result
>to shortening the A-arm. I have not removed my TR3 A-Arms yet, but
>it appears there is room to move the ball joint inward at least an
>inch in this way. I know I can't go as far as those of you who have
>shortened the upper arms, but it seems like it could be a decent
>compromise. I am concerned though, as this seems too easy. None of
>you guys have done it. Instead you have shortening the upper arms
>which, from what I have read, is challenging, as is moving the inner
>pivot point and retaining substantial structure.
>
>So, the question is. . . . . . . Why is simply moving the ball joint
>further inboard not a good solution? What am I missing?
>
>Thanks in advance,
>
>Jack
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