No doubt that the rear cylinder runs the hottest, but I have found that if
the cooling system, oil and water, are in good shape, and IF the RPM is kept
within reason, (touches wood), it's not a problem for us.
I don't do any more than progressively open up the steam holes for the little
banana ports in the head gasket, bigger towards the rear.
A lot of guys are running pretty high revs now and this becomes more of a
potential problem, and on some "other" buzzy engines I do add a provision for
flow in the rear.
As a related matter of interest, I had a scuffing issue recently, 3 out of 4.
The problem was that #1 was the worst, very heavy, metal transfer,
progressively less back to #4, which was near perfect! Exactly the opposite of
what would be expected. After going over the drivers excellent track notes,
and recalling our conversation about not getting water temp in it due to a
very cold weekend, we concluded that the pistons were up to temp as evidenced
by normal oil temps, but the liners were too cold.
It's a real balancing act with these things.
Then as Greg S pointed out, lugging can cause problems as well, both lack of
splash, and losing the oil wedge due to drop in main pressure.
Glen
-----Original Message-----
From: EDWARD BARNARD <edwardbarnard@prodigy.net>
To: Robert Blake <rblake36@yahoo.com>; fot <fot@autox.team.net>; yellow04
<yellow04@tr4racer.com>
Cc: Glen Effinger <fubog1@aol.com>
Sent: Wed, Sep 12, 2012 10:24 am
Subject: Re: [Fot] Never be beaten by equipment
Group / Glen: At the risk of opening a can of worms similar to the "to torque
plate or not to torque plate" argument, I have a question for the group. I
have a certain interest in Greg and Bob's plight since I assembled the first
engine that failed. Clearances were .005" on all pistons to cylinder walls,
and we assumed that the failure was that the machinist I use didn't properly
use the torque plate I provide him.
When their machinists work failed in a similar manner this weekend it opens up
the failure analysis beyond one persons lack of attention. At the track I put
forth the theory of possible heat in the number 4 cylinder. This block has
been vatted and thoroughly cleaned multiple times so I'd like to rule that
failure out.
My question to the group is, to aid coolant flow to the rear cylinder I have
always routed the heater bypass pipe running down the left side of the engine
up to the heater valve port on the right side of the head. My thought being
that it is similar to "cracking" open the heater valve on your street car, and
that it would allow some flow to the backside of the #4 cylinder.
Any thoughts on this? Glen?
Also, when we first undertook the project Greg Solo mentioned that we might
need to drill the Chevy rods with an oil hole to "squirt" some oil on the
cylinder walls. Any further thoughts on that? Greg S., do you care to
elaborate?
The really head scratchier is that Greg Blake has the same set-up, and it is
running fine (knock wood). Same pistons, rods, crank, bearings, etc.
We need to solve Bob's lack of track issue so there can be another father -
son team on the track and not in the paddock.
-Ed-
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