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> Date: (No, or invalid, date.)
> From: RIVERSIDE
> To: tot@autox.team.net
> Subject: Re: negative camber
>
> A problem with the described solution is that now the inner shaft
> centerline is farther from the ground than before. We want that
> center to be pretty close the the factory point I think, to encourage
> camber gain on jounce. The A-arm sawing isn't the best deal
> either as shortening the upper arm makes changes in camber more
> abrupt. Getting this geometry just right is why engineers get the
> big bucks. One of my early attempts to avoid both of the above
> pitfalls was to heat and bend the upright to get the desired static
> camber. This of course openned up another can of worms with the
> trunion and ball joint no longer sharing a pivot axis. Using alot of
> castor (5 degrees or more) can help alot but the steering loads
> can get out of hand. Bill Boemler once told me that he had his
> TR3 racer at like 13 degrees and it handled beautifully. After about
> ten laps tho, his arms fell off!
> art de armond
> ----------
> > Another way of adding negative camber without sawing the upper A-arms is
> to bolt
> > a
> > large piece of angle iron to the holes at the top of the spring perch
> where
> > the inner
> > side of the upper A-arm normally attaches. Make sure that the upright
> face of
> > the
> > angle iron is somewhat inboard of the normal pivot location (like maybe
> .100
> > to .150
> > inch?). Bolt the stock inner pivot piece (trunnion?) to the vertical
> face of
> > the
> > angle iron - you'll need to rotate it 90 degrees from its normal
> orientation.
> > You
> > can then use shims between the angle iron and A-arm attachment to adjust
> the
> > camber.
> >
> > Upon re-reading my description above, I find I've confused myself. I
> think I
> > can
> > draw this up as a jpeg and send it to anyone interested. This is not my
> idea,
> > but
> > when I saw it on someone else's TR-4 I was impressed with its
simplicity.
> >
> > - Tony Drews
> >
>
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