The problem with TR3/4 front suspension is not simply insufficient
negative camber when you lower the car, but also bump steer and a
front roll axis that's about three feet underground. Since the rear
roll center is the centerline of the solid axle (unles there's a
panhard rod fitted) the front and rear are constantly trying to do
very different things in response to cornering forces.
The solutions depend on the leniency of your sanctioning body. On my
TR3 I used a suspension analysis program to select new upper arm pivot
points and arm length. I don't remember the actual numbers, but my
pivot point is moved about 1.5 inches inward and the arm is about one
inch shorter. The bushings have been replaced with heim joints and
each arm is adjustable so I can dial in both camber and caster (to a
limited degree). Made a huge difference, but probably illegal just
about everywhere.
I spent a lot of time on the TR3 relocating both the idler and the
steering arms to reduce bump steer. I drilled out the tapped section,
ground the mounting holes into slots, and shoved everything up until
the idler and steering arms were in the center of the upper and lower
travel of the steering bellcranks (I forget what you call those
thingies). Then I welded in washers to locate everything and bolted it
all up. Can't say if that helped anything, but it killed a few
evenings in the middle of winter.
Peyote has the upper arm shortened about an inch, and it handles very
well. The rack is not stock - it's from something japanese, maybe an
Isuzu. And it's mounted up about the same height as my modified TR3
steering.
Of course the old way to change the camber is to bend the
whatchamacallit that links the upper and lower arms. Don't think I'd
want to do that.
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