Another trick which can work is vibration -- an air hammer using an
appropriate diameter flat tip. Tough to keep the tool on the bolt head, but
sometimes it's enough.
Can'y say enough about the patience recommendations: iron oxide is a lot
harder than the base metal, so once the fastener starts to move, carefully
working it in a little an dout a little, combined with additional
penetrating oil or whatever penetrant you're using, is a key consideration.
Gary
----- Original Message -----
From: "Gordon Glasgow" <gsglasgow@comcast.net>
To: "'Fred Katz'" <roadster@astound.net>; "'Datsun roadster'"
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, August 22, 2009 1:22 PM
Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
> If you have reverse-twist drill bits, sometimes just trying to drill the
> bolt head with one of these will generate enough torque/heat to break the
> bolt loose.
>
> Gordon Glasgow
> -----Original Message-----
> From: datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net
> [mailto:datsun-roadsters-bounces@autox.team.net] On Behalf Of Fred Katz
> Sent: Friday, August 21, 2009 4:48 PM
> To: Datsun roadster
> Subject: Re: [Roadsters] What is recommended for breaking rust loose
>
> As Vince said, use patience.
>
> But, if you're in a hurry, drill out the bolt heads. I was in a hurry
> once at a pick-and-pull junkyard, going after fenders and other front-
> end parts. I brought a battery-powered portable drill, extra batteries
> and drill bits. Worked great, was done real fast. Of course you'll
> need new nuts and bolts.
>
> Fred - So.SF
> On Aug 20, 2009, at 7:24 PM, barterdude wrote:
>
>> I am tackling restoration of a 1964 Fairlady I got out of
>> Pennsylvania and
>> virtually every nut, bolt, screw, connecting device is RUSTED big
>> time.
>> Wonder what you use to cut through the rust so we can get this
>> detached
>> without having to bust everything in half?
>>
>>
>>
>> Suggestion appreciated.
>>
>>
>>
>> Gary Lasater
>>
>> founding member www.wycroc.org
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