Ok electrical gurus, I need some help. I have an ignition miss that I cannot
figure out. I do believe it is being caused by an electrical gremlin. Here
is the set up: Gary Boone EI, recently rebuilt; Jacobs Pro-Street ignition
(multi-spark and captive discharge) with Jacobs coil and Jacobs wires;
non-stock but new ignition switch; relocated batt in trunk; ground staps from
starter to frame, from alt to frame, battery grounded in rear on body to frame
mounting bolt. I have rewired all wires to and from the ignition switch; to
and from the alternator to the fuse box and amp guage; all wires leading to
the EI; changed the EI box; changed spark plugs (can't remember if I changed
plug wires yet but I think I did); GM one wire alt; newer starter; newer batt
cables.
Here is what happened: Pulled the motor to fix a trans bearing last summer
after Shasta. Car had a slight miss then (always has) but ran very strong.
When the trans and engine went back in after the repair something was
different: Car ran fantastic, like it should (very built motor), was smooth
with no miss, clearly had more power, etc. Then two days later it suddenly
went back to it's old miss problems and has been getting progressively worse
despite my best efforts. Now it misses enough that I believe it is causing it
to run hot (about 215 degrees even with a new 3 core rad, new and tested
themo, electric fan, etc... ran cool at Shasta with same set up last summer.
Head gasket is fairly new, head is studed, newer water pump... bad impeller?).
I have bipassed the Jacobs; no difference. Changed plugs, bought new carbs,
jetted carbs with an analyzer (just today in fact), re-wired this, changed
that... still no joy. I am ready to tear the whole car apart and start over,
but before I do that I thought I would ask and see if ANYONE has some ideas.
The only thing I note is that the car will sometimes continue to run for 3-5
seconds after I turn off the key... not run on, but run normally then shut
off. I figured this was from the CD of the Jacobs and happening now because I
had removed my kill switch when I was re-doing the wiring, but could it be a
short of some kind, and if so how can I find it? Anyone suspect a grounding
issue? Ghosts? I have had this car 20 years, built it from the ground up...
I feel I know her well, but I am stumped. I will be trying the obvious stuff
once again (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc.) but electrical wiring is my weak
point. Any suggestions appreciated. If no fixie, no Shasta for Greggie, and
that means that Barbie will not be there! Thanks.
Greg Burrows
67 2000 #588
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