Greg:
You are overlooking the obvious.
Just R & R the engine the day before Shasta, you should be good for two days! :)
Don't forget to check fuel flow. If the miss is under load, the carbs can run
fine at idle tests, but not work under power.
Also, go back and double-check all physical connections to the dist., frame,
alt. etc. that would be taken apart, then reconnected during an engine pull.
Good luck
Dan & Susan
> Ok electrical gurus, I need some help. I have an ignition miss that I cannot
> figure out. I do believe it is being caused by an electrical gremlin. Here
> is the set up: Gary Boone EI, recently rebuilt; Jacobs Pro-Street ignition
> (multi-spark and captive discharge) with Jacobs coil and Jacobs wires;
> non-stock but new ignition switch; relocated batt in trunk; ground staps from
> starter to frame, from alt to frame, battery grounded in rear on body to
>frame
> mounting bolt. I have rewired all wires to and from the ignition switch; to
> and from the alternator to the fuse box and amp guage; all wires leading to
> the EI; changed the EI box; changed spark plugs (can't remember if I changed
> plug wires yet but I think I did); GM one wire alt; newer starter; newer batt
> cables.
> Here is what happened: Pulled the motor to fix a trans bearing last summer
> after Shasta. Car had a slight miss then (always has) but ran very strong.
> When the trans and engine went back in after the repair something was
> different: Car ran fantastic, like it should (very built motor), was smooth
> with no miss, clearly had more power, etc. Then two days later it suddenly
> went back to it's old miss problems and has been getting progressively worse
> despite my best efforts. Now it misses enough that I believe it is causing it
> to run hot (about 215 degrees even with a new 3 core rad, new and tested
> themo, electric fan, etc... ran cool at Shasta with same set up last summer.
> Head gasket is fairly new, head is studed, newer water pump... bad
>impeller?).
> I have bipassed the Jacobs; no difference. Changed plugs, bought new carbs,
> jetted carbs with an analyzer (just today in fact), re-wired this, changed
> that... still no joy. I am ready to tear the whole car apart and start over,
> but before I do that I thought I would ask and see if ANYONE has some ideas.
> The only thing I note is that the car will sometimes continue to run for 3-5
> seconds after I turn off the key... not run on, but run normally then shut
> off. I figured this was from the CD of the Jacobs and happening now because I
> had removed my kill switch when I was re-doing the wiring, but could it be a
> short of some kind, and if so how can I find it? Anyone suspect a grounding
> issue? Ghosts? I have had this car 20 years, built it from the ground up...
> I feel I know her well, but I am stumped. I will be trying the obvious stuff
> once again (cap, rotor, plugs, wires, etc.) but electrical wiring is my weak
> point. Any suggestions appreciated. If no fixie, no Shasta for Greggie, and
> that means that Barbie will not be there! Thanks.
> Greg Burrows
> 67 2000 #588
|