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Re: 311 stroker-a few additional points

To: Jim Cawrse <nqrithjim@hotmail.com>, datsunmike@nyc.rr.com,
Subject: Re: 311 stroker-a few additional points
From: Will Slater <will45817@yahoo.com>
Date: Tue, 27 Aug 2002 08:07:04 -0700 (PDT)
When one does the stroker conversion how important is
it to go with at 5 spd tranny? By the way any
suggestions on good sources for a 5 spd, likely cost? 
TIA
Will
'68 1600 in need of a rebuild
--- Jim Cawrse <nqrithjim@hotmail.com> wrote:
> For all:
> I agree with Mike on all he says, here are a few
> additional points:
> -early 240 Z carbs are same diameter as U20,
> if you happen across a set.  Only problem is
> the float bowl of the aft carb is on the aft side,
> this is not a problem with an early single resevoir
> master cyl car.  Any time your dealing with used
> SUs, make sure the throttle shafts are tight, or
> no amount of fooling with the carbs will make them
> work right.
> -if you go to the expense of the head work and
> porting, go with bigger valves if possible.
> for low $$ approach, also,newest issue of Grassroots
> Motorspots has good article on do it yourself
> head work.  I would hate to grind thru a water
> passage though!
> -The stock exhaust manifold is about as good as a
> header, so if yours is good and not cracked,
> spend the money on a good free flow
> 2inch exhaust, there is significant power to
> be gained here.  Use a braided stainless flex
> (Like CDM sells) next to the manifold, because
> the fat 2in pipe will not be able to move in the
> hole in the frame.
> -my car likes lots of initial advance, about
> 20 degrees, make sure if you have this much
> initial advance  you have the early advance
> cuve (before smog) distributor
> 
> The car will not have the 600RPM sewing machine like
> idle anymore (more like a lopey 1100) but the
> first time you get a 2 foot scratch going into
> second, or walk away from a Miata, it will
> be more than worth it.
> 
> For this year, SCCA groups all slightly modified
> roadsters in CSP, a terrible disadvantage for
> 1500 and 1600 cars, so I pretty much figure
> a stroker should be CSP also, since its same
> engine size as a 2000....so far no one has
> questioned this.  On the other hand, I am
> in no danger of taking away anyones national
> title either.......
> Best Regards,
> Jim
> Chesapeake Va
> 67 pushrod 2L/5spd
> 72 510 sportwagon
> 
> >From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >Reply-To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
> >To: "Mallory Owen" <mallory@floorhockey.net>,   
> ><datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Subject: Re: 311 stroker
> >Date: Sun, 25 Aug 2002 18:44:40 -0400
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> Aug 2002 15:46:38 -0700
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> Aug 2002 16:44:52 -0600 
> >(MDT)
> >From datsun-roadsters-owner@autox.team.net Sun, 25
> Aug 2002 15:47:50 -0700
> >Message-ID:
> <002101c24c88$ff9ae640$15385a18@nyc.rr.com>
> >References:
> <002a01c24c54$cda6a6d0$1802a8c0@mallorycomp>
> >X-Mailer: Microsoft Outlook Express 6.00.2600.0000
> >Sender: owner-datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net
> >Precedence: bulk
> >
> >You need a cam for the car. I use a Malvern Racing
> cam - 272 duration with
> >.450 lift. I also used custom Manley Proflo valves
> which flow more than
> >stock valves and don't cost much more money than
> stock valves and they're
> >mucho lighter. I also used comp valve springs.
> >
> >I suggest using a U20 oil pump and ARP rod bolts.
> If your head is very cut 
> >I
> >also recommend forklift pistons to keep the CR
> reasonable although others
> >may disagree on this. You lose HP but gain
> reliability.
> >
> >I also suggest U20 carbs as the 1.5" carbs just
> don't flow enough at higher
> >rpms. I ported a 1600 manifold to accept the carbs.
> >
> >Porting would be very nice and is determined by how
> much $$$$ you have.
> >
> >I also lightened my flywheel and balanced the
> engine.
> >
> >Good luck
> >
> >Mike
> >
> >----- Original Message -----
> >From: "Mallory Owen" <mallory@floorhockey.net>
> >To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> >Sent: Sunday, August 25, 2002 12:31 PM
> >Subject: 311 stroker
> >
> >
> > > My R16 needs a rebuild.
> > > I plan to use an H20 crank and make a stroker.
> > > What advice is out there re: cam, headwork, rods
> etc.
> > > thanks
> > > Mallory
> > >
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> 
> 
> 
>
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