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Re: VG30 conversion fuel pump location

To: "List" <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: VG30 conversion fuel pump location
From: Michael Spreadbury <michaelspreadbury@attbi.com>
Date: Wed, 22 May 2002 19:59:30 -0700
At 05:14 PM 5/22/2002 -0700, Ed Wilsey wrote:
>Mike,
>
>Can you tell us the specifics of the Justy alternator conversion?

Ed,

When I first did the SR20DE conversion in my Roadster I ran into multiple 
clearance problems as the SR's alternator is a large, 85-amp unit, and it 
is mounted very low on the engine. Finding space to mount the stock SR 
alternator in the confines of the narrow and tall Roadster frame was very 
difficult, every direction I went I ran into an obstacle. I quickly came to 
the conclusion that another alternator would need to be found.

Since the Roadster is a relatively simple car, I did not need to have the 
85-amp alternator that came with the stock SR, as I am not running power 
windows, air conditioning systems, rear window defrosters, high output 
audio systems, or other high amperage draws that most modern cars have. I 
have the bare essentials to run my car, EFI fuel pump, the EFI system 
itself, and the standard Roadster electrical equipment.

After doing quite a bit of research, I found several alternatives for an 
alternator that still had good output, but housed in a smaller case than 
the stock SR alternator. The Chevy Sprint/Suzuki Swift alternator is tiny, 
but only has a 45-amp output, and had a single V-groove belt. There are 
several Toyota alternators with a small case, but I did not like their 
overall design.

Finally, I found the perfect solution for my application-- the Subaru Justy 
alternator. It is made by Hitachi-- the same people that make the SR 
alternator, uses the same plug as the Nissan alternator, has an attractive 
case, has a 55-amp output (and I hear of higher output versions in the same 
case), and the pulley matches the SR's center pulley on the SR's crankshaft.

Now I was in business! I found that I could mount the alternator a little 
higher on the block, and still clear most of the frame. I did find that if 
I wanted acceptable belt adjustability, that I would need to notch the 
frame to clear the case of the alternator. This is a very minor notch which 
basically takes the edge out of the frame and turns in inward 180-degrees-- 
I would guess that the notch is .5" deep and goes the length of the 
alternator body.

Wiring the alternator is the same as any internally regulated alternator, I 
did need to wire in an 'excite' light in the dashboard, and replace all the 
wiring to the ammeter, but other than that it was a plug and play setup.

Overall, the alternator mounting looks completely stock, and the output has 
been enough to power everything that I have needed for a year now. All the 
Roadster SR conversions that we are doing have the same alternator combo-- 
it just works!

Let me know if you have any other questions,

Michael Spreadbury

pictures here: http://www.zparts.com/showcase/msSR20swap1/intro.html

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