Tom Duffy wrote
>I just got the rubber strips that go on the door windows, but
>I can't find an easy way to install them. The old ones came out
>basically by pulling on them till the disintegrated, but it looks
>like the new ones have to be slid into place. I tried this
>with the vent frame out of the door, but didn't get more than
>2 inches in. I tried opening up the channel a little, but it
>didn't get me much further.
>Is there a better way to do this, or some lubricant that
>will let the rubber be pushed all the way through the channel?
Are you talking about the fuzzy channel in the vent frame, or the
squeegees in the tops of the doors? Here's a thought for the latter.
Try soapy water. First, clean out that channel as best you can, then put
a decent shot of dish detergent (or car wash solution) into about a quart
of water. You also might need a pusher tool that won't mar the paint. I
used a popsicle stick with one end sanded to a blunt chisel tip. Dip the
rubber part in the soapy water then lay it along the top of the door and
align it with the channel. (An alternative is to moistn the bead with the
soapy water leaving the top part dry for a better grip) Chances are it
will be too long but dont' trim it yet. Start at the front edge by the
vent window. Use the wooden tool to push the rubber bead down into the
channel. That will get it started down, then you push it home with your
thumb. When you get to the trailing edge of the door, trim rubber to
length. Probably best to do this with the door closed, because you're
going to be mashing down on it alot :^)
>
>I also got the gas outer grommet, and this has it's own set
>of problems... Do you put the grommet into the hole and
>then pass the filler neck through the grommet (too tight, but
>might work with some stretching), or put the grommet on the
>filler neck and then work one side of the grommet through
>the hole in the body (even tighter)?
It's been a long time since I've dealt with the filler grommet, but you
might want to try the soapy water lubricant there too. If you can get
one bit og the backside flange past the sheetmetal, you can probably pull
the rest of the flange trough from the inside using a prying tool (again
wood is a good idea)
_Marc T.
==========================================================================
Marc Tyler TDROC Sisterdale TX
1970 1600 #SPL311-31016
1965 L-320 #L320 013642
http://datsun_marc.tripod.com/cgi-bin/datsun_homepage.html
/// datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net mailing list
|