Jon,
The alt bracket is part of the engine mount in the later cars. The air pump
bracket may be able to be used but it's shorter than the early bracket I
have and that's why the Chrysler alt was used. The air pump slide adjuster
can be used I do believe. When I finally get my engine back from the machine
shop I'll check it out.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <jon_wissler@pngc.com>
To: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
Cc: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Sunday, May 20, 2001 11:39 PM
Subject: Re: Alternnator Part II
>
> So do one of our vendors have the early 2 liter passenger side
> bracket? Can the one I currently have on the driver's side be modified to
> fit the pax side? How about the upper slide adjustment bracket? I'd
> really like to move this sucker to the other side, but I also want to be
> able to drive it in the nice weather. I finally found a belt today that I
> managed to muscle in with a little creativity. The only way it's likely
> coming off is if it breaks or I cut it off. I was wrong about my 3/4 of
> tightening adjustment, it's more like a 1/2 inch. The belt almost has to
> be a perfect diameter (35" in this case) in order to both fit over the
> sprockets and then be small enough to tension up. I disconnected the wire
> harness at the voltage regulator, and have just left everything hanging.
> I'm still confused about the fuseable link issue. Why does putting a 30
> amp fuse on your new 66 amp alt not defeat the purpose of going to the
> beefier alt in the first place
>
>
>
> "datsunmike"
> <datsunmike@n To: <jon_wissler@pngc.com>,
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> yc.rr.com> cc:
> Subject: Re: Alternnator Part
II
> 05/20/01
> 06:40 AM
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Yes, all early cars including the 67.5 2Ls had the alt mounted on the
> passenger side as did all Canadian cars because they didn't need emissions
> equipment.
>
> I do believe, if my memory is correct, that several people I knew used the
> air pump bracket to mount a Chrysler alt. as it's mounting ear was much
> thicker and brought it in line with the other pulleys.
>
> Mike
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: <jon_wissler@pngc.com>
> To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 7:35 PM
> Subject: Alternnator Part II
>
>
> > For those of you who enjoy living vicariously through the
> uninformed,
> > I present you with the following situation. If you recall, I thought I
> > blew the alternator in my car. Tested dead. I went to pull it out, and
> I
> > find that the hot wire has corroded off the post, and the post is
> EXTREMELY
> > loose and swirly in the alternator housing. So I pull the SOB (NOT an
> easy
> > task on a 2000), and run it to United Battery in Portland to have it
> > rebuilt. No problem the guy says, should be ready by Monday afternoon.
> > Off to a wedding my wife and go in the rig (69 Chev, sense a pattern?),
> and
> > I get a call on my cell on the way home from United Battery. Good old
> Pat
> > says I cooked the everliving crap out my alternator, and suggest
> replacing
> > it with a (drum roll please) 66 amp Delco (GM) one wire. He says the
> > Mitsubishi unit, which he can get, is absolutely worthless. He says the
> GM
> > will bolt right in to the existing setup. Unconvinced, and completely
> > automotive electronics illiterate, I go to the shop to speak with him
> face
> > to face. He's seems familiar with Roadsters (I made his day when I told
> > him about the Datsun meet at Blue Lake park June 4th), and swears that
he
> > has sold alts for a number of conversions and that it's a piece of cake.
> > So I take the plunge for $63 and now I'm getting ready to give it a
shot.
> >
> > Now comes the good part. Am I right in that the early 1600's came
> > with the stock alt on the pax side? He kept talking about 1600's, and I
> am
> > beginning to question whether or not this is going to "slip right in".
> The
> > dimensions are a little bigger, although the holes appear to line up. I
> > had a hell of a time getting the old one out, having to pull all the rad
> > hoses and loosen the window wash reservoir before I could in to the damn
> > thing. This guy insisted that:
> >
> > The only wire I need to hook up is the "one" hot wire.
> > No need to ground.
> > No need to fusable link.
> > Ammeter should still work, would only possibly get blown out if
I
> > drew a charge of greater than 30 amps, which should only happen
> if
> > I'm stone cold dead.
> >
> >
> > So tell me what's wrong with this picture. It sounds too good to be
> true.
> > Daniel Beatty put the Summit racing 100 amp model in his 1600 and he
> only
> > hooked up the one hot wire also, and he says it works fine. He hasn't
> > wired back up his ammeter yet though. I'll be out in the garage futzing
> > with the "drop it right theory", but if you have any dire warnings or
> good
> > advice, shoot it to me. I'd do the "move to the other side" project,
but
> > it looks like the bracketing issues on a 2000 are a lot more complex
than
> > my feeble skills. If it fits in the old space, you guys can show me how
> > the hell to move at Blue Lake on the 4th. Thanks in advance.
> >
> > 69 SRL
> > NOWROC
> > Troutdale, OR
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