So do one of our vendors have the early 2 liter passenger side
bracket? Can the one I currently have on the driver's side be modified to
fit the pax side? How about the upper slide adjustment bracket? I'd
really like to move this sucker to the other side, but I also want to be
able to drive it in the nice weather. I finally found a belt today that I
managed to muscle in with a little creativity. The only way it's likely
coming off is if it breaks or I cut it off. I was wrong about my 3/4 of
tightening adjustment, it's more like a 1/2 inch. The belt almost has to
be a perfect diameter (35" in this case) in order to both fit over the
sprockets and then be small enough to tension up. I disconnected the wire
harness at the voltage regulator, and have just left everything hanging.
I'm still confused about the fuseable link issue. Why does putting a 30
amp fuse on your new 66 amp alt not defeat the purpose of going to the
beefier alt in the first place
"datsunmike"
<datsunmike@n To: <jon_wissler@pngc.com>,
<datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
yc.rr.com> cc:
Subject: Re: Alternnator Part II
05/20/01
06:40 AM
Yes, all early cars including the 67.5 2Ls had the alt mounted on the
passenger side as did all Canadian cars because they didn't need emissions
equipment.
I do believe, if my memory is correct, that several people I knew used the
air pump bracket to mount a Chrysler alt. as it's mounting ear was much
thicker and brought it in line with the other pulleys.
Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <jon_wissler@pngc.com>
To: <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Sent: Saturday, May 19, 2001 7:35 PM
Subject: Alternnator Part II
> For those of you who enjoy living vicariously through the
uninformed,
> I present you with the following situation. If you recall, I thought I
> blew the alternator in my car. Tested dead. I went to pull it out, and
I
> find that the hot wire has corroded off the post, and the post is
EXTREMELY
> loose and swirly in the alternator housing. So I pull the SOB (NOT an
easy
> task on a 2000), and run it to United Battery in Portland to have it
> rebuilt. No problem the guy says, should be ready by Monday afternoon.
> Off to a wedding my wife and go in the rig (69 Chev, sense a pattern?),
and
> I get a call on my cell on the way home from United Battery. Good old
Pat
> says I cooked the everliving crap out my alternator, and suggest
replacing
> it with a (drum roll please) 66 amp Delco (GM) one wire. He says the
> Mitsubishi unit, which he can get, is absolutely worthless. He says the
GM
> will bolt right in to the existing setup. Unconvinced, and completely
> automotive electronics illiterate, I go to the shop to speak with him
face
> to face. He's seems familiar with Roadsters (I made his day when I told
> him about the Datsun meet at Blue Lake park June 4th), and swears that he
> has sold alts for a number of conversions and that it's a piece of cake.
> So I take the plunge for $63 and now I'm getting ready to give it a shot.
>
> Now comes the good part. Am I right in that the early 1600's came
> with the stock alt on the pax side? He kept talking about 1600's, and I
am
> beginning to question whether or not this is going to "slip right in".
The
> dimensions are a little bigger, although the holes appear to line up. I
> had a hell of a time getting the old one out, having to pull all the rad
> hoses and loosen the window wash reservoir before I could in to the damn
> thing. This guy insisted that:
>
> The only wire I need to hook up is the "one" hot wire.
> No need to ground.
> No need to fusable link.
> Ammeter should still work, would only possibly get blown out if I
> drew a charge of greater than 30 amps, which should only happen
if
> I'm stone cold dead.
>
>
> So tell me what's wrong with this picture. It sounds too good to be
true.
> Daniel Beatty put the Summit racing 100 amp model in his 1600 and he
only
> hooked up the one hot wire also, and he says it works fine. He hasn't
> wired back up his ammeter yet though. I'll be out in the garage futzing
> with the "drop it right theory", but if you have any dire warnings or
good
> advice, shoot it to me. I'd do the "move to the other side" project, but
> it looks like the bracketing issues on a 2000 are a lot more complex than
> my feeble skills. If it fits in the old space, you guys can show me how
> the hell to move at Blue Lake on the 4th. Thanks in advance.
>
> 69 SRL
> NOWROC
> Troutdale, OR
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