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Re: Lexan, (was 280 Z Alloy Wheels??)

To: <Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us>,
Subject: Re: Lexan, (was 280 Z Alloy Wheels??)
From: "datsunmike" <datsunmike@nyc.rr.com>
Date: Thu, 2 Nov 2000 19:33:13 -0500
Boy, you guys live on the edge :-)

Mike
----- Original Message -----
From: <Fred_Katz@ci.sf.ca.us>
To: 'roadster.netlist' <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>; Ofarrell; Fergus
<Ofarrell.Fergus@hitco.com>
Sent: Thursday, November 02, 2000 2:56 PM
Subject: Re: Lexan, (was 280 Z Alloy Wheels??)


> Fergus,
>
> I've done a lot of flame-polishing on plexi. Best results are achieved
with
> a smooth finish, either by routing the edge with a router or sanding the
> edge with fine sandpaper. Even better results with a welding torch, as the
> oxygen mix produces a bright clear edge and the pass is so fast that the
> material won't warp from excess heat.
>
> Fred - So.SF
> BADROC
>
> _______________________ Reply Separator ______________________
> >Subject: Lexan, (was 280 Z Alloy Wheels??)
> >Author:  "Ofarrell; Fergus" <Ofarrell.Fergus@hitco.com>
> >Date:    11/2/2000 10:27 AM
> >
> >Ronnie,
> >there is a finishing technique when working with plexiglass that may work
on
> >Lexan.
> >Flame-polishing is simply just taking a Home Depot propane torch and
passing
> >it over the rough cut edge.  The warming flash-melts the plexi, making it
> >all flow back into the bandsaw cuts, resulting in a really smooth, shiny
> >surface. (NO SANDING!!) As your material gets thicker (and more heat
> >resistant, which Lexan might/probably be) the timing of how fast/slow you
> >pass by is touchy.  Try it on the cut off excess first, I'd suggest.
> >
> >I'll be trying it sometime this winter, as I am thinking of making my
> >hardtop rear window a split version, with the bottom half open-able.
> >
> >Good luck,
> >Fergus
> >69 2000
> >HB,CA
> >


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