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Re: 1966 -1967 low windshield restoration HELP

To: datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net, flc@CooverLaw.com
Subject: Re: 1966 -1967 low windshield restoration HELP
From: walter@omni.sps.mot.com (Thomas Walter)
Date: Fri, 25 Feb 00 11:58:08 CST
Chip,

Welcome to the roadster list!

You got the bug full time. I didn't have enough energy to reply last
night, but after five cups of my super dark French-Roast, I am
ready to reply.

> I bought a shell from Craig Halsted in Front Royal, Virginia.  Turns out
> it is a 1966. Its in excellent condition-much better than my 67.  The 66
> has a "Datsun" AM/FM Radio in it.   I've never seen one of those-is it
> rare??

You'll have to get a digital camera, and take a photo of it. Never saw
one in the roadster original, but they did come in Datsun's starting in
'71 as an option. Push button selection on those version. 

 
> I plan to use my BADLY RUSTED 67 low windshield as a donor car for
> engine, transmission, vent window assy, windshield, interior.  Does
> anyone know any reason why parts won't swap in?

If the 67 has the SAME ignition switch and dash at the '66, no problem
in swapping parts. The 67 1/2 model was slightly different (lockable
ignition switch, mounted on the column, etc.)

> I have a 68 U20 5 sp in the 67 and the original 1600 4 sp as a spare.
> Which combo is better??  Will the 5 sp bolt to the 1600??

Yes you can install the 5 speed, but you will need the correct drive shaft
and to modify the transmission tunnel & Console cover plate (Stan Chernoff
made up a different plate for the 5 speed). The 5speed does have that nice
over drive, but a taller first gear. Harder to get away from a light, lower
rpms on the freeway. For a lot of stop and go driving, I'd keep the four
speed. If you do a lot of freeway driving, not much in town, then the five
speed makes sense.

>
> Is there an alternative to cutting the inner fender to clear the stock
> U20 air cleaner if I go that route? Doesn't the rear transmission
> bracket bolt bolt to the frame at a different point on the 5sp than the
> 4 sp??  If so, what is the best way to accomplish this.  I seem to
> remember having the darn thing welded to the frame 24 years ago!!! That
> can't be the best way.

One comment... FLY out to Mt. Shasta Meet. You'll see quite a few U20 
fitted into '66 and early '67 cars. Herb Petty's is fantastic. I seem
to recall he did some sheet metal work (hammer & dolly) to the inner
fender panel to clear the air cleaner. To get the Solex's to breath with
a stock air cleaner, you really need to run TWO air cleaners under the
housing.

> Are the stock side mirrors available??  Does anyone have them NOS?

Original for '66-'67 model is a ROUND mirror glass. Later vehicles
went to a more rectangular size. Ironic thing is I finally found a 
correct early model mirror from Japan. It is up for sale on eBay
this week. 

Check out the link to see what else I have listed (lots of goodies):
http://cgi6.ebay.com/aw-cgi/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewListedItems&userid=twalter311


> How do I determine if I should do a frame off resto to the 66??  Its in
> very good original condition.   What is accomplished when you do a
> frame-off??  Can you accomplish substantially the same thing leaving the
> body on the frame?  Is a frame-off principally so you can sand blast and
> recoat the frame??

Check the archives, just went over this a little bit ago. Frame off is the
way to go if you have the time and space. I would also recommend this on
the east coast, just to make sure the frame is sound. I kept the body on
the frame on my '68 2000. Made life much easier when I relocated to Texas!

>
> I removed all the brittle asphalt covering from the 66 floor pan.  The
> pan is perforated slightly around the passenger side drain plug.  What
> is the best way to repair this?  Do you recommend covering with sheet
> metal??  Are there patch panels available??  After the repair, is there
> a comparable/preferable covering to the asphalt??  What purpose did the
> factory covering serve??Sound deadening??

I would pull up all the factory covering, it was to help prevent "Oil
canning" of the sheet metal, but a great rust trap as moisture got under it.


> After asking all these questions, will you folks get angry if I ask a
> whole lot more as I go along with this project?

Nope. Check out the archives for common questions, search the web for
tech tips, and just have fun with the project!

> Is there any rule that you have to begin and finish a Roadster
> restoration in the same decade??!!!

No, half of my fun comes from working on my roadster. Especially after
a crazy week at work.
 
> Last question of the evening:  Are there lawyers out there who
> specialize in "Roadster Law" representing people who get hooked on their
> Roadsters, spend too much time with them and tick off their spouses in
> the process?? If so, can anyone refer me to one, cuz. . .I think I'm
> going to need HELP!!!    :)

Never neglect the family! My  golden rule was: Family first; Work second;
Community third (this includes the roadster, too).  If you are married,
I highly recommend that you spend more time with your spouse and family
than the roadster, roses and diamonds are also good! ;-)

Ahem... Diamonds and Roses are much, much, much cheaper in the long run. ;-)

If you have kids, have them "help out" to the restoration project.
Emerson, 9, helped me with the Land Cruiser Brakes... Pump, Hold.... We
got air into the clutch line, so it took a while. Finally got it done...
and Emerson beamed with pride when I told him "job well done, couldn't
have done it without you".  Liam helped out with putting the front knuckle
back together.  Oh - boys have been wanting a go-kart... I told them yes,
but they have to BUILD IT! 

Cheers,

Tom Walter  Proud Poppa of Emerson and Liam ;-)
Austin, TX  '68 2000






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