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Re: brake caliper rebuild-sleeve or replace???

To: Roadster List <datsun-roadsters@autox.team.net>
Subject: Re: brake caliper rebuild-sleeve or replace???
From: Todd Osborn <trosborn@california.com>
Date: Mon, 03 May 1999 19:27:55 -0700
Nathan,
 
Replacing the caliper cylinders from Nissan will give you a sure thing,
no leaks, no worries about the quality of a sleeved interference fit and
will cost you about $240. But unless you're real good about flushing the
brakes, they will probably rust eventually.

You can have your calipers sleeved with stainless steel and use new seal
kits from Nissan. If you use a good machine shop you should have no
leaks, the sleeves stay in (very important <G>), and no rust in the
bores. Note you may get rust at the bleed valves if you don't flush
regularly (every two years).

Options I know of for stainless sleeved calipers are:

1) White Post Restorations (http://www.whitepost.com). They charged $80
a bore (complete -- disassemble, sleeve, new seals and reassemble).
Someone also said they do just the sleeves for $40 a bore. 

2) I had my calipers sleeved by George Frechette General Machine Service
in Granby, MA, (800) 528-5235. He uses 304 stainless and Locktites the
sleeves in, beautiful workmanship too. George charges $40.00 for each
caliper cylinder, he'll also do the master cylinder for $40.00 at the
same time (normally $55.00). About a two week turn around. 

If you disassemble and replace the seals yourself, the sleeved cylinders
are clearly cheaper, but long term relibility may be a problem. 

I did the sleeves two years ago and no leaks yet.  

Todd Osborn
68 2L DATSFUN, San Jose, CA

PS Don't forget the Master and the rear brakes -- I not *even* going to
start the sleeved aluminum thread.   


NATHAN J RUFFCORN wrote:
> 
> I know I'm beating a REALLY old horse when I bring up brakes again-bear with
> me PLEASE!
> 
> This is my question:
> What are the advantages and disadvantges for both rebuilding the front
> calipers (having them sleeved with stainless) or just purchasing new
> housings.  It would seem to me that stainless would be the way to go as it
> would never pit.  I was curious, as recent threads have spoken of replacing
> with the original the original aluminum housings.  What other variables
> exist (longevity, cost, effectiveness, ect ect)
> 
> If anyone one of you have had positive or negative experience with either
> solution please let me know.  Seems as if the brake parts on the roadsters
> are eating up a big portion of the budget (already replaced 1/2 of the
> lines, rear cylinders, brake master, and rubber flex hoses).  Where will it
> end!!   :-)   Really thankful that most of the fittings-excluding the front
> calipers-use SAE threads!
> 
> I CANNOT just throw seals in the front calipers as they are pitted REALLY
> bad.  Any suggestions are appreciated!
> 
> Thanks again!
> Nathan
> 
> 69 2000
> 70 1600 (2.8L chevy!)

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