>That (cheap, vibration sensitive, worn out) headlight relay.
>
>With the hi-output alternator, i've got my low beams hard wired to go on
>WITH the hi-beams. This makes mondo light (hella halogen headlights), but
>you MUST consider total draw from your fusebox (and system). Thus the
>direct wire feed from the alternator, and NO OLD CORRODED brass fuse holders.
>
>I noticed on a stock setup the hi-beams only dim, when i switch to lo-beam,
>even at 4500 plus (full throttle) dimming, the lo-beams are rock solid
>(with no mods).
>
>Anyone else have it that way with a late model stock setup?
>
>thorn.
There's been a lot of discussion lately on the 510 list regarding aging
contacts, small OEM gauge wiring and updating with better/brighter
lights. Consensus seems to be to use the OEM wiring (after you've made
sure it's in good shape with clean contacts) to switch relays which use
appropriate gauge wiring to power (much) higher wattage lights.
In other words run the power (properly fused) from the battery or starter
to the new lights through the secondary (higher amp rating) side of the
relay and control the new relay with the original wiring. This way you
don't alter the original wiring.
Now we just have to find a replacement for the flakey OEM relay, or maybe
wire around it?
Later, Ron
________________
Ronnie Day
rday@cyberramp.net
Dallas/Ft. Worth
'71 510 2-dr (Prepared class autocrosser)
'73 510 2-dr (Street Toy)
|