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Re: advice, please

To: pbw@chong.dseg.ti.com (Pat Willems (@chong)), cmneal@tenet.edu,
Subject: Re: advice, please
From: "Doug Mitchell" <doug@dsg128.nad.ford.com>
Date: Mon, 9 Jan 1995 10:28:57 -0500
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On Jan 9,  8:01am, Pat Willems (@chong) wrote:
> Subject: Re: advice, please
> Christopher Michael Neal <cmneal@tenet.edu> wrote
>
> >Hello all--Please give advice/opinions about a car I'm considering buy=
ing.
> >It is a 1972 Triumph Spitfire (1300 engine)=7F{.  OK top, original pai=
nt, but
> >needs to be re-painted.  There is some floor rust, but not excessive.
> >There is no OBVIOUS fluid leakage, and it seems pretty well kept. I di=
dn't
> >have much time, so I didn't get to drive it or do much REAL inspection=
=2E
>
> >He wants $2200 for it, but may come down alittle. Is this a relatively=
 fair
> >price based on these fuzzy details?? The car is currently running.  It=
 is a
> >2 hour drive to go see the car again. Worth my while if I really miss
driving
> >one?? Is there anything specific to this model car I should know??
>
> >Thanks in advance for your help!!
>
> >Chris Neal
> >Wacko, TX
[SNIP]
> Good
>   - rear swing axle fixed to correct handling problems in earlier Spits=
,
>   - '73 and later Spits have a 2" wider rear track and have had
>     problems with rear sag and breaking halfshafts (or so I have heard)=
,
>   - top down,
>   - fun to drive, handles well,
>   - not a lot of emissions stuff to worry about for when smog checks
>     start in Waco,
>   - its a Triumph.
>
> Bad
>   - underpowered,
>   - rust, if raised in the South (the car that is),
>   - underpowered,
>   - its a Triumph,
>   - underpowered.
>
> I would definitely go drive it again and put it through the ringer.
> Things to do off the top of my head
>   - Run up the car in each gear, keep your hand off the stick, and let
>     off the gas immediately--see if the shift pops out of gear--could m=
ean
>     transmission work.
>   - Listen for bad u-joints or put car on stands and check u-joints for=

>     slop (there are 4).
>   - Check rear trunk lid, door sills, battery box, floor panels/foot we=
lls
>     for rust (all can be replaced fairly easily but you shouldn't pay f=
or
>     good if they are bad).
>   - Compression test (wet & dry)
>   - 1000 other things I can't think of right now.
[SNIP]
> Regards,
> Pat Willems
> pbw@chong.dseg.ti.com
> '72 Spit Mk IV (in pieces)
> Flower Mound, TX
>-- End of excerpt from Pat Willems (@chong)


One thing that I would add to Pat's list is to take a dial indicator with=

you if you go back to look at it. Use the indicator to check the end floa=
t
of the crankshaft. Later 1300 and all 1500 lumps were subject to severe
wear on the thrust washer, and if it fails, it usually meant a new crank.=

You are looking for float of .004 to .010 inch if memory serves. Perhaps
Greg Meboe knows the numbers exactly.

Doug Mitchell - 73' Spitfire 1500/1300 - I'll rebuild that 1500 someday.


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