James, that is such a small area the contractors move in costs would be very
high (but nowhere near $10K). Hand laid asphalt is very hard to work or you
could use a cold laid product and put it in yourself but I don't think you
would like the results. Without supporting base, paving is in fact not all
that stable plus it gets soft in hot weather. Kinda ugly, too Would it be
feasible for you to purchase those 12" square precast concrete pavers
(either in a contrasting color or in red concrete) and hand lay them? You
would need to excavate down a few inches so they were flush with the
concrete strips. better yet, set them 1/2" apart in a gravel bed and fill
the joints with soil/plant with chamomile. It would be just fine to work on,
plenty stable, supportive, maintains drainage, plus it leaves your overalls
with a nice herb scent. The next best alternative would be to use the two
existing strips as a screed for a concrete pour, which you can dye, paint,
or stain to match. You could do that your self, less than 2 yards,
especially by putting in cold joints and only pouring a little at a time,
or do the excavation and prep and have a contractor do the pour. OK?
Tony
----- Original Message -----
From: "james creasy" <Black94PGT@pacbell.net>
To: "Anthony Tabacco" <atabacco@california.com>; <ba-autox@autox.team.net>
Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:38 AM
Subject: driveway contracting question, was Re: A/C Paving 101
> i have a related question.
>
> my driveway has two strips of hard material (red concrete?) with grass in
> the middle. id love it if i could the last 20 feet or so paved over so i
> could work on my car outside. any tips for what to ask for for a
> contractor, or tips on finding one? if this will cost more than $10K
forget
> it.
>
> the original driveway was built in 1923 and it about 35 feet long- runs
> right next to the house on one side for about 20 feet.
>
> in the summer i can put a jack on the dirt/grass, but im not brave enough
to
> crawl underneath with jack stands on just dirt.
>
> anyone done this? advice? thanks,
>
> -james "now a new jag driver" creasy
>
> ----- Original Message -----
> From: "Anthony Tabacco" <atabacco@california.com>
> To: <ba-autox@autox.team.net>
> Sent: Monday, June 03, 2002 11:20 AM
> Subject: A/C Paving 101
>
>
> > Hot Mix Asphalt Paving ingredients include asphalt binders, course and
> fine
> > aggregates, and mineral fillers. About 90-95% of the total volume of the
> mix
> > is made up of aggregates. Surfaces that we usually associate with gravel
> > buildup will usually be of a mix design that contains a high percentage
of
> > course aggregates, and probably a degradation of binders though wear and
> > evaporation (petroleum products evaporate). There are various surface
> > treatments, ranging from sprayed asphalt, asphalt seals (fog seal), to
> > slurries of emulsified asphalts mixed with fine aggregates, that can
> extend
> > the life of paving by limiting water intrusion, and these are
particularly
> > necessary as the mix begins to disintegrate.
> >
> > I can think of no other activity that will degrade a paved surface
faster
> > than autocrossing on it. The aggregates are literally being pulled from
> the
> > surface. Even high traffic-index truck traffic will not subject a
surface
> to
> > the high shear of racing cars on it. So that's where the gravel comes
> from,
> > and that's why no matter how we sweep it, it reappears. It is just the
> > pavement breaking down. Irreparably.
> >
> > With rough grading, but no curbs, gutters, marking, right now you can
> figure
> > about $3.00 per square foot in install a medium index (for large areas
and
> > not a high traffic-index) parking lot. The lot at GGF to use an example
is
> > 550,000 SF (about 12.6 acres not counting the staging area). That's
works
> > out to a little over $1.6M.
> >
> > This is all pretty boring stuff but it begs a question that is
interesting
> > ( I've always found it very interesting anyway), namely : Why would
anyone
> > let us do this to their lot?
> >
> > Tony
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