Using the threaded insert in the bottom of the camera is a
bad idea. Not only does it transmit any vibration directly
to the camera, it will crack the case(eventually).
Actually I've been using the stud mount on the bottom for quite
a while and have had no problems, and I'me talking about a full
size VHS shoulder carry camera that weighs about 5 pounds with
a tape and battery. Mine is mounted to a piece of angle iron
welded to the roll cage in a prepared class Pinto that vibrates
like crazy. The lens is about even with my shoulder and when set to
full wide angle you can see pretty well out the windshield and
can see the steering wheel and shifter. The resulting pictures are
rock-steady. The mount you showed looks good as long as the seat
back is tie back REAL WELL so it won't move fore and aft.
If you mount too far back the track looks like it's at the end
of a tunnel and you can't see cones and coming turns well.
A box enclosure
lined with convoluted foam works very well. The mount on the website
that mounts to the headrest bracket places the camera to far forward
in the car. The camera needs to be back as far as possible. This will
help you see what your hands are doing.
Mike B. 99cm TLS#1
www.boltmaker.com/ABasin.html
On Apr 3 , "Dean Craft" <dcraft@neo.lrun.com> wrote:
>
> Hi all,
>
> I ran in my first autocross this past weekend, and had my wife
video tape
> my runs. Well after watching the tape I have decided that I would
like to
> mount the camera inside the car,
> Dean
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