Don wrote:
Hi Dick,
Hmmmm.... I hope I'm not wrong about this.
My understanding is the only difference betwen the solid wheel hubs and
the wire wheel ones is the length on the the lug bolts. The solid wheel
lug bolts are 5/8" longer and won't fit with the wire wheels. So, some
folks on the list keep the longer solid wheel lug bolts and use a 5/8"
spacer to fit between the wire wheel splined hub extension and the
normal hub. In that way they can use either solid wheels or wire wheels.
They remove the 5/8" spacer when using solid wheels. Or so I
understand... :-)
Don Malling
Don----I referred to p. 259 of TRF's "Blue" Catalogue. Here they show a
hub extension (Part #217603/2) that looks to be necessary when
converting from the steel wheel to the Dayton wire wheel. What you are
saying is that this part is not required, and the wire wheel bolts right
up to the original hub, no splined extension or knock-off nut needed?
Dick
Sally or Dick Taylor wrote:
Don----I know it takes a conversion hub to go from solid wheels to
the wire type, but I'm not up on whether one can carry a spare that
still is of the solid type. Nor do I know if the aerosol flat-fixer will
work satisfactorily in an inner tube. If I ran with wires and had my
mind set on not carring a spare of any sort, I would probably test this
repair method in the sanctity of my garage to see if it worked. I can't
even visualize a space-saver wire wheel.
I think it was Peter Z. that had a list of cars that ran with the 4x4.5
bolt pattern. These cars no doubt had the space saver tire in their
trunk. Peter?
Dick
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