On Fri, 4 Jun 2004, Lumia, John wrote:
> Bob thanks for the reply.
You're welcome.
> I have a puller with long hooks, they arent
> narrow enough!
Copy that. I have a few of them!
> You might recall that the puller access for removing
> the bearing is somewhat D shaped, so the leg of my puller with ~3/8
> wide legs wont go in far enough to make good contact and winds up
> slipping off.
Yep.
> Have you ever tried a bearing separator (aka a bearing
> splitter), it a two piece device with sharp edges?
That would work - but goodbye bearing!
The inner bearing race is not secured that much, so a splitter is
overkill.
> Actually I was
> hoping to save these bearings, I am removing them mainly because I
> need to re-distribute the shims for the correct ring to pinion
> contact.
It turns out there there is a tool to remove these bearings. It's more or
less a collar with pins to connect the two sides. The sides have teeth to
engage the little cuts in the differential unit. Hook that baby up and
then connect a "puller" and you're all set and the bearing is okay when
you are done.
FWIW - the Quaiffe has nice big cuts that you can hook onto with a normal
puller. Makes the job REAL EASY.
> Also, even if I buy new bearings I would think that they
> need to come off a few times to get the right shim distribution.
If you follow the factory book, you install the center section and then
use a feeler gauge to see how much float there is. You then add about .003
to get an interference fit to the case. Then take half the shims on one
side and half the shims on the other side. All other differential settings
are done with the pinion head shims (and the pinion tail shims to get
proper bearing preload).
Having the right tools makes the job really easy!
And if you think doing the side bearings is a pain, wait'll you take the
pinion head bearing race out 10 times to get it shimmed to the right
height. Note: start with at least .040 of shims on that puppy!
> BTW, do you have a good way to check roller bearings, to me they seem
> to be ok, but maybe you just recommend replacing them all (~$175 bucks
> for all 6, not exactly a drop in the bucket).
Like any roller bearing, look for any pitting or scratching on the rollers
or the races. If there is any pitting, c ya latah - bye on those puppies.
The thing to consider is the amount of labor to replace any of the
bearings... if you skip one now, you just know deep down inside that will
be the bearing that fails in 2k miles. You might was well do it now while
you have the thing open!
$175 is cheaper than $800 for a reconditioned/rebuilt unit!
Just for the record - the TR6 diff is a def. weak spot. Do everything that
you can to insure that it's more reliable. And don't forget to add a drain
plug and don't forget to change the diff oil every couple of years.
> thanks
> John
regards,
rml
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
Bob Lang Room N42-140Q | This space for rent
Consultant MIT unix-vms-help |
Voice:617-253-7438 FAX: 617-258-9535 |
------------------------------------------------------------------------------
|