Wouldn't tires that wide slow you down? I thought the idea was to have tires
just wide enough that the strength of the engine cannot shear the rubber on
the contact patch. Any wider and you are just lowering the ground pressure
and increasing the chance of slipping on dust plus adding wind resistance.
In snowy or raining conditions for example you want to be on very narrow
tires. Does anybody have the opposing curves relating static friction,
material strength and car weight? There ought to be an ideal wheel size
relative to car weight and horsepower at the wheels.
Mark Hooper
1972 TR6 (not driving on 76/200/15 but even so)
-----Original Message-----
From: steve bridge [mailto:slbridge@hotmail.com]
Sent: Thursday, March 06, 2003 9:09 AM
To: 6pack@autox.team.net
Subject: Revolution Wheels
I talked to... dang, I bad with names, anyway, the guy at Revolution. Very
helpful and informative. He called last night and we spoke for maybe a half
hour about my needs with my Spit 3.5. I have vintage Revolutions that are
in excellent condition, never bounced off a curb, but he had to get me
thinking in the real world of metal fatigue. Sometimes a guy forgets he is
riding fast on 30 year old parts. So I will be having them crack checked
and planning (saving up ) for some new wheels to put race rubber on just for
autocrossing. I will go to the parts store today and find some 7/16 wheel
studs. I will have to drill out the holes in my wheels 1/16 of an inch from
9/16, but _ _ _ _ what's his name at Revo said they drill that wheel as far
as 3/4 of an inch so I will be safe there.
I just wanted to give the supplier a good feedback for returning my call
and spending all that time when I am only seeking wheel nuts. I learned much
about wheels, offsets, etc. Race wheels for my Spitfire start at $188 and
go to $220 for 10 inch wide wheels. I could get some bite with that much
rubber, even with the V-8! SD Steve
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